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Hardest Multi-Pitch Routes in Oz.

JakeB

13-Feb-2007
7:38:45 PM

Just thinking the other day. how many hard Multi Pitch Routes does the best place in the world have.
Ozzie
Lord Gum Tree
Parched 29 (in the bluies)
Pitch Blank 30 (Bluies)
Passport 27
deeper waters (tyndalls)
siblings 26
any others?????

chris

13-Feb-2007
10:13:02 PM

Hi Jake..... Where is Parched and Pitch Blank? Are they Zacs routes at Perry's Lookdown?
What about Graham Fairbairn's new routes at Bungonia?
Do you know if the Bluies routes are going in the upcoming guide?
Oh yeah, what about Serpentine.... 24 and 29? Maybe it doesn't really count because everybody just does the top pitch?

Onsight

14-Feb-2007
12:50:09 AM

On 13/02/2007 chris wrote:
>Hi Jake..... Where is Parched and Pitch Blank? Are they Zacs routes at
>Perry's Lookdown?
>Do you know if the Bluies routes are going in the upcoming guide?

Yes they are.

Parched is Zac's, multi-pich perhaps if you also climb Red Edge. Pitch Blank is Lee's at Porters left end.

New stuff at Bungonia might be the business.

mikl law

14-Feb-2007
12:05:17 PM

Red Edge with Zacs 3rd pitch variant is 23,25,27,25,25, 200m
Red Edge with Zac's 3rd pitch into Parched is 23,25,27,29/30 (I still think it looks harder than that, a 55m pitch with 5 rings, Zac trashed at least one rope, and it is awesomely exposed)
Critical Mass is 22, 24, 26, 25, 25 150m

sydneymatt

14-Feb-2007
3:31:20 PM

Theres the multi-pitch at Lake Huntley in Tassie, pitches up to 26. And Andy Richardson has a new five pitch at Narrow Neck with pitches up to 28.

nmonteith

14-Feb-2007
3:44:08 PM

On 14/02/2007 sydneymatt wrote:
>Theres the multi-pitch at Lake Huntley in Tassie, pitches up to 26.
That's Deeper Water - its just been repeated in a day by Gareth/Adam (the first ascent team)

Lost Boys on Mt Warning might be only grade 24 - but at 580m+ and still unclimbed in a single day it
surely must be up there as one of Ozs harder multipitch routes.

WM

14-Feb-2007
4:06:48 PM

I assume you're referring to Ozy Direct not the easier Ozy original

Buffalo North Wall also has Rough Justice 170m 28 (24, 25, 28, 21, ?)
Plus some long 25s: Mein Kampf 140m (25, 25, 24, 25), Straight Edge 160m, El Supremo 105m, Fuhrer 142m.
Also has several other sub-100m multipitches at 25-28

And Queen Vic also has some long 25s:
Devil Made me Do it 95m (23, 25, 23)
Eureka Uprising 370m (16, 23, 25, 20, 21, 19, ?, 24, 22, 21, 22, ?, ?)

Dave J

14-Feb-2007
8:09:05 PM

Sounds like the blueys has some amazing new routes courtesy of zac

So by "multi" we mean more than two? (otherwise taipan has a buinch of hardish two pitch routes).

and hard is 27+?

I dont think they've been done but if someone went into frenchman's...there is an amazing headwall on
that thing...not much gear though, the last 2 pitches might need to be protected with sky hooks

simey

14-Feb-2007
8:31:56 PM

On 14/02/2007 Dave J wrote:
>I dont think they've been done but if someone went into frenchman's...there is an amazing headwall on that thing...not much gear though, the last 2 pitches might need to be protected with sky hooks

Good to see that Dave is pointing out the potential scenario at Frenchmans.

Frenchmans could easily have new routes created with rap-bolting, but that wouldn't suit the adventurous aspect of the cliff. Any new routes should be established ground-up (without abseil inspection) and preferably be done bolt-free. There would be some amazing adventures for future generations.

As for long, quality routes (but not in the super-hard bracket) I reckon Il Duce/El Supremo/Lebensraum Connection with pitches of 16, 21, 25, 23, 25 is an exceptional outing up the North Wall at Buffalo.

JakeB

14-Feb-2007
8:53:21 PM

i couldn't agree more about frenchman's. Have many people read the article on Rolando Larcher. Leading the Way in the first issue of the Vertical mag.?? true ledgend.

Macciza

17-Feb-2007
11:01:28 AM

High All

Parched was/is awesome. Thanks Mike.

There is also Gigantor on DogFace. It comes in at between 26R and 28 - depending . . .
But then again it really should be done as a single pitch like the original aid first ascent so not sure if
that counts.
Titan is apparently 26 - so you could always go for the onsight.
Zacs new stuff at Bungonia would also have to go on your list.
Plus still heaps more potential routes in the Blueies.

Cheers

mousey

17-Feb-2007
11:45:17 AM

i think zacs stuff at bungonia would be at the top of the list for sure.
im gonna be doing photos with zac & cam down there soon, ill put 1 or 2 onilne for yall to check out

widewetandslippery

17-Feb-2007
11:50:43 AM

Gmans Bungonia routes are way soft and Zacs routes are over bolted travesties

mousey

17-Feb-2007
4:05:29 PM

haha shut up dave, youre just bitter that you cant get up anything anymore ;)
when are we gonna have some beers?

There are 14 messages in this topic.