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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Strathboogie climbing
Dworx1
8/02/2007
5:37:16 PM
I was recently up around strathboogie climbing at teneriff and a few other spots up there, one crag was particulary interesting, I went up to Mt wombat lookout and spoke to the Fire lookout guy. I was enquiring about access to a large crag on the back side of mt wombat from the road it looks like a 100 120 ft crag. The fire guy claims that the access is now restricted by the farmer as a couple of months ago some climbers where up there and found some wedgetail eagles caught in very old now illegal crow traps. The climbers called animal protection services and the farmer was charged. Now the Fire guy told me that the farmer was totally unaware that the wedgies were caught in the traps he obviuosly hadn't checked them for awhile. This is why they are now illegal as the animal (crow or eagle or whateva is caught in the trpa dies of starvation.) The farmer had set them up to catch crows, which is also illegal, but old school famers do a lot of illegal shit, my own dad is one.
The fire guy claims the farmer was pissed the climbers didn't tell him that the wedgies were caught in them and as a result the area is now unaccessible. I'm not defending the farmer or the climbers, if i found wedgies caught is steel cages i'd probably call the cops rather than go and speak to the farmer. Just wondering if anyone else knows anything about this........
trappers
9/02/2007
8:19:56 AM
what's the climbing like at teneriff? i drove past it last weekend and looks like a lot of rock ot there
Dworx1
9/02/2007
1:06:16 PM
ahh yeah teneriffe cool mate amazing rock comapared to the other boulders around that area, great handjaming that doesn't hurt the hands due to the hard compacted nature of the rock. not much after 21 tho, had a great day out there, bitch of a walk in tho with all the gear up a long slope and you'll also need a length of static rope to setup a belay or top rope from some of the climbs, defininately dont go went its too hot like I did either as the crag is in the sun most of the time and just kills you, i think there was only one or two climsb that were in the shade, but definately worth a look especially if you hate handjammin like i do....

gordoste
9/02/2007
2:09:58 PM
hey rowan, i live in albury and haven't yet made it to teneriffe, but hope to this autumn. will you be climbing there during april/may/june? maybe we could meet up...
lacto
9/02/2007
5:25:52 PM
isnt that rolling stone wall ?
Dworx1
13/02/2007
6:42:01 PM
Rolling stone wall??? Are you talking about the crag in question to restricted access or the climbs at teneriffe????
Dworx1
13/02/2007
6:42:57 PM
possibly what do you climb? trad or sport? grades, experience????

gordoste
13/02/2007
11:01:09 PM
climb trad and sport, comfortable leading 16 trad, 19 sport, have been climbing for quite a while. would be coming down with others and just looking for someone to help us find the crag and point out some nice lines...
WM
14/02/2007
10:10:05 AM
On 13/02/2007 Dworx1 wrote:
>Rolling stone wall??? Are you talking about the crag in question to restricted
>access or the climbs at teneriffe????

There is a rolling stone wall which is a separate crag south east of euroa (visible from the euroa-merton road) - ie nowhere near teneriffe. It looks quite high from the road and from memory is written up in the eastern Vic guide. Like lacto I thought it might be the crag you were talking about as having been "banned" by the farmer
Dworx1
14/02/2007
10:29:07 AM
written up in the eastern Vic guide. Like lacto I thought it might be the crag you were talking about as having been "banned" by the farmer


Yep thats the one I'm talking about, i didnt have a guide for the area so i ddin't know the one but thats definately it.

shiltz
14/02/2007
12:28:42 PM
We went in for a look at Rolling Stone Wall 3+ years ago. We approached from above. The farmer gave us a ride in his ute. We rang ahead to get permission.
Descent to the base is similar to the North Cliff at Ben Nevis. The routes are rarely done and exhibit typical Strathbogie mosses and lichens. It is described in the Eastern Vic guidebook published by the VCC.
trappers
14/02/2007
1:17:09 PM
what about the boulders lower down at teneriffe? Are they featured?Are they covered in lichen and moss etc aswell??
dworx1
14/02/2007
1:45:36 PM
what about the boulders lower down at teneriffe? Are they featured?Are they covered in lichen and moss etc aswell??

i checked out a few boulder problems at teneriffe, but i dont think anything has been established there, its different rock to the rock mentioned above, no moss or chossy looking rock, there could be some bouldering but i didnt really explore the area due to the heat..
dalai
14/02/2007
1:54:35 PM
Bouldering at Teneriffe was mentioned in an old rock magazine article (1983???) about climbing in the Eastern district.

It said that Tempest bouldered a bit in the next valley just behind the climbing area...

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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