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protect rope from cliff edge when top roping ?

rockhopper

14-Nov-2006
2:45:49 PM

GDay all,

I was wondering if anyone had any tricks for protecting their rope from fraying on the cliff edge
when top roping, and belaying from the bottom. I've seen some pretty nasty freying of my rope's sheath happen in seconds on some bluestone cliffs near my home.

I've seen people using carpet and canvas spread along the top of the cliff edge - i am sure this works
great - but what heavy stuff to carry into a remote location ! (Most of my climbing seems to involve quite
a bit of treking)

I'm hoping for a lighter and more portable solution. I was thinking something like a strong, slippery, cloth
tube that could cover the rope for the first few meters. One thought that occured to me was the possibility
of threading the rope through odd meter of flexable plastic irrigation tube, then somehow holding the tube in place on the cliff top edge. (so it doesnt slide down the rope to the climber). Not too sure how to go about that.

Comments ? Suggestions ?

Super Saiyan

14-Nov-2006
2:57:29 PM

Spiroll make a rubber type protector that wraps around the rope at point of contact with the cliff. MD also make a tube type one that is make from heavy duty tarpaulin

nmonteith

14-Nov-2006
2:59:00 PM

On 14/11/2006 rockhopper wrote:
>I'm hoping for a lighter and more portable solution. I was thinking something
>like a strong, slippery, cloth
>tube that could cover the rope for the first few meters.

These already exisit. They are called 'rope protectors' and can be bought from most climbing shops.
They are usually very tough nylon tube which can be opened and closed via velcro.

heres one for sale at Rock Hardware!
http://www.chockstone.org/RockHardware/Order.asp?Action=View&StockCode=5019

Ronny

14-Nov-2006
3:25:15 PM

Generally its preferable to extend the toprope anchor so that its over the edge, and then when you put the protector on the rope having it fall down to the climber like you suggest won't be a problem (just hold it in place with some cord).

kezza

14-Nov-2006
3:32:12 PM

Or cheap alternative would be a cut off of a garden hose, slice it down the middle and wrap it around... Can't see why it wouldn't work..

harold

14-Nov-2006
3:46:23 PM

I cut off the arms and legs of my old wetsuit, cut down one side length ways and sew on some velcro so it can be wraped around the rope and the rope goes through the arm or leg, then make a hole at one end to attach a cord or biner to stop the protector falling down the cliff and hey presto! Easy. Bomberpro says in another thread that he does the same thing with old fire hoses.

monty

14-Nov-2006
3:50:04 PM

bomberpro wrote this the other day and i thought what an awesome idea but now where to get an old fire hose

I make my edge protectors from old
fire hose , cut a length 1/2 m and then cut it down one side to open it up glue or sew some velcro to
close it again and make it possible to put on the rope after you pass it on the way down. ( for top
ropeing turn it inside out so the canvas is nice and slipery on the top rope and the rubber side grabs
the rock ), a small hole in the top to tie on a string for locating it without it falling down and its finished
warm regards simon

monty

14-Nov-2006
3:53:30 PM

oops i see in the above thread my two finger typing has seen me post the same info from bomberpro as harold just a lot slower lol but i still think this is a great idea

IdratherbeclimbingM9

14-Nov-2006
9:30:32 PM

>(so it doesnt slide down the rope to the climber). Not too sure how to go about that.

Any light cord will do. I use nylon venetian blind cord.
Tie it to a small hole in one end of the protector and have it long enough to tie back to the anchor.

If you extend the anchor krabs over the edge so the toprope is running free of the rock then this is still an ideal way to protect the extension slings/ropes off the anchor/s.

>cut off of a garden hose, slice it down the middle and wrap it around... >Can't see why it wouldn't work..
I used to do this but found that hose (also clear plastic tubing), tends to spiral/twist/kink. It is difficult to get the longitudinal cut for inserting the rope in, to always lay uppermost, and as a consequence the rope tends to want to escape the protector ...
The longer the length of the protector the worse this problem was. You won't find much use for short protectors; ... catch 22 !

Paul

15-Nov-2006
6:11:46 PM

On 14/11/2006 monty wrote:
>bomberpro wrote this the other day and i thought what an awesome idea but
>now where to get an old fire hose
>
>I make my edge protectors from old
>fire hose , cut a length 1/2 m and then cut it down one side to open it
>up glue or sew some velcro to
>close it again and make it possible to put on the rope after you pass
>it on the way down. ( for top
>ropeing turn it inside out so the canvas is nice and slipery on the top
>rope and the rubber side grabs
>the rock ), a small hole in the top to tie on a string for locating it
>without it falling down and its finished
>warm regards simon

Most fire fighting activities use a foam or some sort of wetting agent with water. When I did a fire fighting course last year we were told not to get the chemical used for the wetting agent on our hands, what would it do to ropes? You could just turn the hose inside out though.

Wytehawk

16-Nov-2006
4:25:29 PM

As a Firefighter I can tell you that even though we do use some foam or wetting agents, 99% of the time all that is going through the hose is water.

If you want to get your hands on old fire hose, pay a visit to your local CFA fire station, (if you are lucky enough to live in the CFA area - even in metro Melb, CFA is responsible for fire protection in suburbs as close as Knox, Springvale, Eltham, Caroline Springs or Point Cook) and ask for any condemned 64mm service hose they may have. Most of the time if you explain what you want it for, you shouldn't have too many problems getiing some.

Alternatively, PM me and I'll see what I can do.

There are 11 messages in this topic.