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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Gramps and Buffalo questions...
tokyo bill
15/09/2006
5:37:42 PM
Well, it looks like this Tokyo-dwelling yank will be heading for Australia once again this November, and I'm already getting excited! Basic plan right now is to split our time between Buffalo and Araps, with the Grampians a question mark in light of the fire damage. Allocation of time among the areas and exact scheduling hasn't yet been worked out.

So, two questions, on two different areas:

(1) How is the post-bushfire rehabiliation of the Grampians going? Anyone heard anything about access and/or climbing status at Mt. Rosea or elsewhere? (I read the previous thread on this board on the subject - http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=38902&Replies=11&PagePos=20&Sort=LastMessage#newpost - but wondered if there's any even fresher information out there.)

(2) What's the story on climbing on the Horn at Mt. Buffalo? I read something on here a while ago about a prohibition on rigging anchors on, or rappelling off, the observation platform railings, but coudn't find the thread. Is that ban still in effect? If so, how does anyone climb on that formation these days?

Don't drink all the beer before I get there (or if you do, make more)!

nmonteith
15/09/2006
5:43:58 PM
On 15/09/2006 tokyo bill wrote:
>(1) How is the post-bushfire rehabiliation of the Grampians going? Anyone
>heard anything about access and/or climbing status at Mt. Rosea or elsewhere?

The fire only affected a small area of the overall climbing areas. The entire Northern Grampians was
un-touched - Mt Stapylton, Hollow Mtn, Mt Difficult are all totally open. Major crags that are closed (until
late 2007) are Rosea, Bundaleer, Asses Ear and Barbican area. The entire Victoria Ranges area is also
free of any fire damage. The Gallery, Fortress, Gilhams etc are all open for business! For me the fires
closures havn't affected my climbing time at all. What style and grades are your after??

>(2) What's the story on climbing on the Horn at Mt. Buffalo?

They installation of new bolt belays has removed the need for people to rap directly off The Horns
tourist handrail. The rule is - use bolt belays when they are available. There is NO ban on climbing at
the Horn
tokyo bill
15/09/2006
7:58:05 PM
Wow, thanks for the fast reply! Sounds like we should be good to go at both the Horn and in the Grampians (subject to the limitations at the Gramps that you described).

As for the type of routes and the grades we're looking for, my first love is long, moderate trad, and within that category pretty much anything will do. For me, "moderate" for trad routes means anything up to maybe 18-19. I really do love getting up high off the deck.

My partner and I are also interested in pushing the grades up a bit this trip on shorter routes, if our hearts and minds can manage it. That'd mean getting up into the low 20s, or at least so we dream.

(In any case, I'm thinking I may have to coax my partner onto "Where Angels Fear to Tread" again at Buffalo. Funny how the pain in my feet has faded to but a distant memory... ;-) )

Thanks again.

nmonteith
18/09/2006
12:48:16 AM
Gramps suggestions at that grade and style...

Stapyton Area
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/9987/stapyltn_centralbuttress.htm

*** Simpleton (18) - 3 pitches up big corner system near Taipan Wall. Good exposre and gear.
** Technical Ecstasy (19) - 3 or so pitches up trciky thin wall. Fiddly gear in places. Superb
**Navigator (2) - 4+ pitches up slab and exposed face. One move wonder - rest is 19 or easier.
* Atomic Tadpole (20) - 2 pitches up crack and tricky face on left side of Taipan. Bonus exposed rap
down Taipan main wall!

Victoria Range

Mt Fox
*** 20th Centrury Fox (20) - 50m enduro slabby face pitch. Amazing! (half bolted)

Emu Rock
*** Patagonia (16) - Three pitches up a truly unqiue juggy face. Looks more like 23 from the ground. All
trad. Probably the best 16 in the state.
http://www.chockstone.org/Gallery/EmuRockPics.htm

Unfortunately Mt Rosea and Asses Ear contain most of the 'other' good routes at that grade in the
Grampians.

Diablo
18/09/2006
10:31:44 AM
On 18/09/2006 nmonteith wrote:

>Mt Fox
>*** 20th Centrury Fox (20) - 50m enduro slabby face pitch. Amazing! (half
>bolted)

Dont forget the bolt plates.
tokyo bill
20/09/2006
6:17:41 PM
Thanks much for the recommendations - extremely helpful. I hope to get a chance to check some or all of them out.

As for the bolt plate reminder - I hear that! My first time climbing in Oz and encountering a carrot bolt, I was following my partner on the second pitch of Skink at Araps. Climbed up to the bolt, cleaned the draw and climbed right on through the traverse, leaving the plate behind. Got to the far side and suddenly had this feeling that I was forgetting something....

Duh. Takes some getting used to!

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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