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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Mount Arapiles Information Please
B. Robert
10/07/2006
2:38:51 PM
Hello,

I am coming to Mount Arapiles for climbing and am looking for some advice on equipment I would need.

My reason for coming to Arapiles is to do some of new routes and I am thinking what bolts to bring? I have been told that bolts are expensive in Australia and it would be cheaper to bring some with me. Do you use the expansion bolt which we prefer to use here, or glue in rings?

Thanking you

Bertrand

nmonteith
10/07/2006
2:44:40 PM
Hello Mr Troll. We recommend you get in touch with the wonderful Natiumuk Bolting Fairies. They do a
great job of bolting routes at Arapiles and can offer advice on when to safely go bolting (ie 3am on a rainy
winters night). If you want to ask advice on the best sort of bolts to remove easily - i recommend asking
Piggy or Edurado. You can rest assured that any bolts you place will probably last about a day.
sydneymatt
10/07/2006
2:47:29 PM
This thread is gunna be a pearler!!

nmonteith
10/07/2006
2:51:36 PM
p.s. - you speak very good english for a country that just lost the world cup.
Ronny
10/07/2006
2:58:57 PM
>you speak very good english for a country...

Huh - you're calling him a country? I don't get it.

We should try to be helpful: You don't need to bring any bolts. You can just bash in mild steel ones extracted from your Peugeot. In fact if you can find an old Peugeot when you get here you could get pre-rusted ones.

dalai
10/07/2006
2:59:52 PM
Neil!!!! Been hiding from any media today so I can enjoy watching the replay not knowing the result - here I thought would be the ONE place where I could avoid reading who won...

If it wasn't for the swear filter!! *angry*

B Robert - welcome to Arapiles. There are thousands of routes which still await a proper ascent once bolted -see The Law Of Ming topic - which should also incorporate trad ascents as well as TR's.

nmonteith
10/07/2006
3:01:52 PM
I had to mow the silly crowds down in my car this morning. Stupid Lygon Street.
B. Robert
10/07/2006
3:10:46 PM
Thankyou for your fast reply.

Do you have any contact number for Natiumuk Bolting Fairies or his email?

Why do you bolt at night? is it because it is too hot in the day? I thought it was your winter at the moment. How hot does it get during the day in August and Septembre?

I have never used removable bolts. How many do I need to have?

I thank you on your complements on my English and although I personally do not follow football yes all of France is in mourning tonight after loosing to the Italians.

What is pearler?

Thanking You

Bertrand

phil_nev
10/07/2006
3:11:48 PM
Robert Bosch?

tmarsh
10/07/2006
3:43:46 PM
Mount Arapiles has a very similar to the sandstone climbing areas in Eastern Germany and the Czech Republic. For the most part, we use protection made from knotted slings and cord so as not to damage the rock. However, on free-standing routes it is permissable to add bolts. These are large rings on a long spike-like shaft. A small hole is drilled into the rock with a hand drill and then enlarged with a chisel and a hammer to produce a tapering hole about 20cms deep. Because the rock here is so soft, it's really quite easy to do it all by hand. The walls of the hole are then lined with strips of lead or zinc and the long bolt is hammered home.

If you have climbed in areas like the Elbanstein, you will be familiar with the sort of bolts I mean. They are made by a local blacksmith in the town of Natimuk, who is one of the few surviving bolt-makers in the country. Whilst you could get a blacksmith at home to make up your ringbolts, locals may not be happy with the decision to use foreign-made bolts. They have been known to pull imported bolts and give them to the blacksmith who melts the down into tent-pegs. But you shouldn't have to worry. You can always get the local blacksmith to make you a few bolts.

The bolting is generally done at night so that when everybody wakes up in the morning, the bolter can lead people to his new climb and say 'surprise!!'. Like opening a present on your birthday.

Eduardo Slabofvic
10/07/2006
3:48:54 PM
Now I know why some of the bolts are in such stuffed places, they were put in at night. Must have been
a night with no moon either, and they might have had to wear their sunglasses for eye protection.

This is different to the generally held opinion which is that their heads were in a place that was really dark
(...and smelly).

SirOinksALot
10/07/2006
4:50:13 PM
All funny stuff!!

Chisels are also required at times when moves may be too difficult for ones ability!
kieranl
10/07/2006
5:26:37 PM
It's actually Cheezels - a mistranslation from the French - the artificial colours and flavours give you that extra boost and aren't yet on the list of banned performance-enhancing drugs

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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