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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

running belays- what weights are ok for this? 16-Mar-2006 At 11:00:26 PM gremlin

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Actually the multi-directional piece(s) near the ground (around waist height) is the whole key to the system
Without this no matter how far the belay slave runs, it will only take in a small amount of slack

With the piece(s)/anchor down low you have a focal point for the slack to be taken in.
What ever rope there is from the anchor to the belay monkey is rope taken out of the leaders fall.
The belay slave/idiot can increase the rate of slack taken in by running or falling away from the anchor.
This will probably increase the impact force on the top piece and possibly the whole system on the wall?
Probably not the best idea on bad trad gear...

Unless you lift your belay monkey off the ground on a normal sport route i wouldn't be to concerned...

The skinny ones can usually run 100m in around 12 seconds... so aviod the fat, old or slower ones...
If the slave is really light deck it out with a backpack filled with rocks, spare gear, water or something...