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Araps Rebolting 13-Jan-2006 At 10:39:21 AM white noise

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some routes at araps are in dire need of being retro bolted yet they are being neglected because bolts are getting wasted on perfectly protectable easy routes.
both l'inconsiquence tranquil and nati dread are in need of being retro bolted, and as they are both sport routes anyway there are no controversial arguments to be had, why is it that l'inconsiquence has only 3 appalling bolt runners in 25 metres and a single bolt belay which could literally kill someone if it ripped yet some bright spark puts a quadruple bolt lower off on despatched, even if 2 are for the king swing they are completely unnecessary. also why is it that as soon as you get to grade 26 at araps bolts arrive, araps most serious routes are grades 24 or 25 (breezin,Ride like the wind, undertaker) yet classics of this calibre at higher grades get bolts, like deliciously deranged? so for a country who's policy on bolting is spray and pray its hardly getting to the heart of the issue arguing about whether a climb should have a bolt or peg in a bit of rock, people need to decide whether a route is trad or sport because mixed routes just confuse climbers and start deb(oring)ates and detract from the climb, see debutantes and centipedes to illustrate this, this is a brilliant climb but wrecked by being half bolted, sport climbers get annoyed with it as they have to fiddle with wigglies and trad heads get pissed because there is decent gear in the bottom section and bolts are a stupid historical quirk. what has happened to god save the queen? on starless buttress, it has trees growing over it due to crap bolting putting people off, yet crapper routes like pilot error are busier than a sale at trev's bargain emporium due to one bolt giving people idiotic ideas that this is a good route, this problem occurs in the gramps too with routes like contra arms pump always being rapped to put gear in as it is near impossible without prior knowledge for onsight ground up attempts to put the gear in, why does amnesty international have 1 bolt in a really well protected trad route when all the other routes to the left of it are sport? i appreciate people like neils efforts to sort this ever going problem out but there are too many idiots with drills bringing routes down to their levels, but doing half baked jobs of it, if the world needs easier sport routes then bolt some, but dont go round puking the odd bolt onto the odd easy route and look for a pat on the back, all it does is piss on the sauna. and ruin rock and ethics, retro bolting is justified if a route is hugely un popular yet would be a classic if it were safe, it also needs to be agreed to by the first ascentionist or guidebook writer etc. bolting's like owning a gun and people should be careful where they go shooting.