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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

The Art of Onsight Trad Climbing 9-Nov-2005 At 3:57:48 PM gremlin

Message

> 1) If trad onsight climbing is your deal, how do you train? What techniques do you
> find most effective?

I wake up and do a heap of pushups, chinup variations, lower body polymetrics
Then i have a quick boulder on my woody between reps to let the pump wear off
When i get home i do it again and then once more before i nod off to sleep
I head down to the local crag twice a week and spend an hour bouldering at my limit
I never use chalk as i view it as weakness in the climber and rather unsightly

> 2) How do you differentiate the emotions and feelings you experience on a trad
> onsight vs. your first crack at a bolted line?

Its all the same...
The best feeling is working out the moves first shot and getting the adrenaline pumping and all the agression out of the system

> 3) Where does the future of the onsight trad lead appear to be going? (does not
> include preplaced trad gear) What role will it play for future generations?

Each to their own... i'm having fun but there seems to be some big ego's in this sport
There is climbing a route and then there is falling your way up it

> 4) What sort of mental prepartion and strategies do you employ when you are getting
> ready for an onsight trad lead at the edge (or beyond) of your current abilities?

I like to think about string theory and lots of whacked out spiritual texts i've read
I also like to quietly recite passages from Hagekura to give myself some balls

> 5) How do you get to that next level? The next grade?

Train harder, find someone who is climbing better or knows more than me
Personally i'm not a chaser of grades...
I climb because its fun, keeps me fit and makes me a better person

> 6) Can the leader fall? Has this ethos changed?

I've never taken a lead fall (on trad) and plan to never take one
If i do fall (top rope/sport) i lower off, pull the rope and start again
That said i climb well below my limit on trad...