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General Climbing Discussion

Angels Buffalo Beta?

10:03:57 AM
Iím off to climb Where Angeles Fear to Tread this weekend and am looking for any useful information from people who have done it before or climb at Buffalo allot. I have the guide book (worst guide Iíve ever spent money on) and have read the description on this site. Is Angeles hard to find? Will I need my #4 Cam? Any beta (or bullsh*t) would be helpful. I know itíll be cold and granite is scary so please keep the negativity.
Also, what else is a must do at Buffalo. Iíve been to the Horn and Cathedral but I love long routes. Any recommendations at the Gorge? What about that cool crag Wonderland by the Horn. I heard there are allot of new routes there, Itíd be nice do some cragging. Is a there a good bouldering area? I donít want any fingerprints come Monday!!!

Eduardo Slabofvic
10:38:48 AM
Don't be a wus and take Beta - go the on-sight.
10:40:46 AM
Angels is not too hard to find. The biggest mistake people make is starting up one crack too far to the right.
This link to the Buffalo guide teaser may help . . It has a slightly better diagram.
Also look at the guide stuff here on Chockstone
and Wills pages
Yes you'll need a #4 Cam. If the weather's fine you'll be in full sun. Wear a solid, comfortable pair of shoes - there's only 5 metres of face climbing - the rest of the time at least one of your footsies will be in a crack.
Steve H
10:48:06 AM
Run all your pitches to full 50m. Can be done in roughly 4 pitches.
The belays used to be at T trees, may have been burnt out??
Can be done in about 3 and half hours if you pitch it this way.
Wear long sleeves, long pants, tape gloves and an old pair of stiff soled high top climbing shoes, La Sportiva Enduro's are the shit.
Climb with one hand, one foot in the crack, the other smearing and palming, do this for until pain sets in, then swap.
Take a couple of 3.5's and 4's a rack of mid and large nuts. You should be able to shuffle cams as you go, eliminating the need for too many cams.
Fantastic route - enjoy!

11:10:45 AM
Not worried about falling off the thing, just want to avoid wasting time. Is getting better access and gear advice blowing the onsight. If so throw your guides away!

Any other good routes we should do? Not sure if I could climb much harder than 20/21 at Buffalo.

Thanks for the info already guys.

11:48:11 AM
Search function on the left of screen works well :) ...(Angels).
Here is a couple of 'start of thread' posts worth checking, amongst others... (Buffalo);

4:55:03 PM
I've done Angels since the last bush fires & all the belay trees are intact. enjoy - its a great fun day out.

our pitch lengths were determined mostly by gear - did it in 6 from memory.

Fish Boy
10:09:30 PM
Other climbs to do in that grade....

Peroxide Blonde
Commander Cody
Banana Blase
Devilled Cream
The Initiation....

9:00:37 PM
Thanks guys. Had a great weekend! We did Angles in 6 hrs car to car and 5 pitches. It's a great line and pretty easy to find. Afterwards, we met a cool Spanish couple, they didnt have a guide (or hardly any gear). We took them up to the Sentinal to climb a cool 20 and then to The Castle where we did a fun 14. This morning we climbed SULTAN! Great Route! We finished on a fun 20 face climb R of Maharaja.
Everything is still closed at Buffalo, including the Campground and Road to the Horn. It seemed the perfect time to visit!

There are 9 messages in this topic.


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