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General Climbing Discussion

Developing in nat park

3:41:26 PM
Found a new area with some (huge) potential.

It is in a national park. I would like to know how climbers in the past have susessfuly lobbied to climb/bolt in national parks.

what is the best way of aproaching the parks service?

I beleive that the local climbing comunity can be of benifit to the parks service if we were alowed to climb in the area.

What are potential blocks to access? What should we do to help shine a favorable light on climbing in national park?

Cheers muchly
5:42:41 PM
Great to see you being concerned about possible access problems in developing a new area.
The Victorian Climbing Club works very closely with all land managers, the DSE in particular.
I suggest you send a message to the VCC Access Officer, whose job it is to make sure access is maximised.
The disclosure of the location of the crag is up to you.
Also make sure you have checked out the latest releases of guides in the area and the various websites where new routes are posted, including

Please contact the Access Officer or me directly, if you want, for advice.

The crag may already have some history.

8:31:12 PM
Cheers, however I was after more general information as the crag is under the duristriction of the VCC

8:54:56 PM
Do you mean the crag is not under the jurisdiction of the VCC (ie in another state)?
9:23:39 PM
How to approach the Parks Service depends on the status of the area.
Is the area a reference site? If the area is a reference site then recreational use of any sort will not be permitted. Any climbing must stop. If any climbs have been bolted the bolts should be removed.
Is climbing banned? If so, don't climb there, try to find some history for the area as to why climbing is banned. Once you've done that, the best approach is usually the rangers on the ground. If the local rangers are the problem then you're in for a long haul.
Is climbing and other outdoor recreation not banned? Start climbing. Park Services do not like people building tracks so don't build them. Try to use different approaches to the area to minimise track-making.
If the area becomes popular, you could approach the park service about creating a proper track but it's a tricky one.
Once you start climbing, some low-key contact with rangers on the ground is useful so that they are aware of activity and they get to know you. That can help when you need to talk about track requirements.
I have not found a good way to talk to Parks personnel about bolting. That topic is generally avoided by all concerned. Rap stations to avoid gully erosion is fine but bolt runners are difficult.
As I said before, getting to know the local rangers is a really good strategy.
2:23:08 PM
If you approach National Parks Service and say I wanna develop a brand new climbing area - forget it! Do a bit of research first. Check out if a management plan exists for the place and what it says about recreation, climbing, development, special areas needing extra protection. Most rangers don't want 'new' areas opened up. Consider Tongue Point!

9:07:56 PM
All of Viccy's nat parks have climbing in them. Generally the locations (aside from the Prom) are the bits that are contentious.

There are certain ways to go about these things...Talk to Anthony (cliff care) and he'll set you straight.

Above all, always bear in mind the 2 boys from Canberra who received a lifetime ban from Buffalo for bolting a route with a petrol drill down in the oval area on new years eve...


There are 7 messages in this topic.


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