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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Cleaning and developing
Monkey man
21-Aug-2005
2:39:12 PM
I am lucky enough to have a cliff in my backyard, its about 200m long, 10 - 25m high, with a fairly big cave at one end, but unfortunately the waterfall runs over this cave in winter, and the shape of the cliff traps the fog in the valley. Makes for a nice view from the balcony though. The rock in some areas is rotten and sandy, and I was wondering if people have had any experiences succesfully cleaning such a cliff. It breaks my heart to toprope some climbs and randomly (rarely thankgod) have a mini bar fridge block come off.

Should I just give up?

Might have to check out the others in the next valley...

Hatman
21-Aug-2005
3:44:31 PM
so your stuck in a sand trap?

what you need is a wedge so you can chip onto the green.

Is it sandstone? If so the rock will probably just be shite. Sandstone has a hard outer crust with crappy soft stuff inside. Sometimes it just keeps crumbling and chipping. However you can often find a nice line amid the choss.

Granite on the other hand you can usualy stabilise with a little work.

I also hate seeing cliffs go to waste but not every cliff need be climbed!

Where abouts are you roughly?
Monkey man
21-Aug-2005
3:55:58 PM
Yeah thats what I've found, its sandstone with a hard crust and crumbly underneath. Some parts are ok though, but I wonder if its worth it when it just sits in fog all winter. The old man on the hill told some story about some bloke bolting it. Ive never found any bolts but there is this one huge block, maybe a metre wide, half a metre deep but four or five metres long that has come off this overhanging wall. I've always wondered if the bolts might be under that block on the ground...

Breezy
21-Aug-2005
9:05:30 PM
On 21/08/2005 Monkey man wrote:
> I've always wondered
>if the bolts might be under that block on the ground...

wonder if the boltee is under there as well :P

Paulie
22-Aug-2005
9:30:56 PM
On 21/08/2005 Hatman wrote:
>...not every cliff need be climbed!

Well said mate.

Paul

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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