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General Climbing Discussion

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Self Belay Devices

dr_fil_good

15-Aug-2005
1:37:43 PM

I'm curious about what self belay devices people have for leading pitches (roped but solo) and what they think of them. My research has pointed to two fantastic looking devices, the Soloist and the Silent Partner.

To me the Silent Partner sounds fantastic but I'm curious about how well the rope feeds through it and if people have problems with it self jamming.

I'm currently using a fixed line (with dynamic rope, I don't like the idea of a static) method for solo climbing, using a Petzl Basic as an ascender and a chest harness to ensure I remain upright. However, I'm wanting to upgrade to a device that (a) does less damage to my rope and (b) can be used for leading a solo climb.

Phil

* I tried to see if there were any other old topics of this nature but couldn't find any - my apologies if it's already been posted.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-Aug-2005
2:00:12 PM

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=6&MessageID=562&Replies=45&PagePos=0&Sort=&MsgPage

brat

15-Aug-2005
3:18:37 PM

http://www.therockzone.co.uk/therockzone/selfbelay.html

Rich

15-Aug-2005
11:30:58 PM

and that was all she (they) wrote

Hatman

16-Aug-2005
7:15:14 AM

you could a try reguarily used but seldome tested device called the "guardian angel"

I hear its very light weight and cheap.

The spec sheet on it says that it works silently with no rope damage. And it can be used for may other purposes.

I sold mine for $50 to a cronstuction worker who had his stolen by a acrobat and now Im always getting buggered up on ropes! Big mistake.

dr_fil_good

16-Aug-2005
8:25:55 AM

Thanks heaps ... that rockzone article was extremely helpful

I'll also look into this 'Guardian Angel' too ... sounds like a funky thing, I've heard people say that they've used theirs even when unroped ;-P

Hatman

17-Aug-2005
5:57:00 PM

nah the "guardian angel" device tends to fail on you when unroped.

The instructions say "my insurance as a guardian angel does not cover stupid unroped soloists"

Kingerz

17-Aug-2005
7:10:50 PM

Use static line it's better in every way for ascending and self-belaying, plus abseiling back down. That's why you have static rope available, so don't be wary of it! It will also resist damage many times better.

Petzl ascender good, bur see previous forum discussions.

Hatman

18-Aug-2005
7:08:14 AM

USE STATIC

I spent a day bolting on a mates dynamic and all the bouncing moved the rope protector and the sheath was nearly cut through. I invested in a nice static line and it much easier to jumar and work on. However the knots can be a pain to get undone.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

18-Aug-2005
9:24:54 AM

Using static may be valid for very short fixed line falls where you are either on the rock or on the rope immediately if you fall, ie nil slack in the system.
Anything further than that and you will be placing considerably higher forces on all components of the system (anchor, harness, your self-belay device, your body) due to the rope NOT absorbing those forces.
It may not break some of those components, but sheath damage could happen to the rope.
OH&S in a workplace would never condone it. Thats why 'screamers' (tear stitch webbing style of fall-force dissipating devices) were invented? ...

Do not use static for lead rope-soloing for the above reasons.

nmonteith

18-Aug-2005
9:41:19 AM

On 18/08/2005 M8iswhereitsat wrote:
>Do not use static for lead rope-soloing for the above reasons.

Yep, I agree M8. Static ropes are only good for "top-rope" self belaying but totally un-suited to leading.

ant

18-Aug-2005
9:43:51 AM

Have to agree with M8 there. A friend in Adelaide injured his back using a petzl basic and a fixed static line.

I have used a fixed dynamic line and a magic plate (or plaquette if you're from europe)with no rope or sheath damage whatsoever. Magic plates or petzl reverso's are also commonly used for roped soloing in the mountains, where iced up ropes or weight are of concern. This set-up is however not as nice as a modified gri-gri or silent partner, due to frictional losses.

dr_fil_good

18-Aug-2005
10:04:17 AM

Ha ha! It's a pity those guardian angels aren't as universal as originally said ;-)

As for static, I'm actually quite scared to self belay on a static line - I've definately got the lengths from caving & canyoning around places. My experience is from a small body length fall, as small as it was I definately felt the jarring right through my back - I was prussiking (¿spl?) up a fixed line in a cave in New Zealand when the movement of the rope caused the rope to move off a ledge, fortunately not too far ... ever since then the fear has been there and I spend a lot more time teaching people how to watch their line whilst abseiling before letting them on

Might look into the price of screamers eh ...

As for undoing troublesome static rope notes, I've always used my nut tool - wedge the nose bit into the first loop of the knot (from the standing end) - jimmy enough slack out to get a bit more of a blunt end in get yourself some more slack then follow around the knot (in cases of knots with two standing ends, like alpine butterflies work each end before going towards the centre) - this also is great for undoing water knots that have felt the full brunt of your load. To avoid additional hassles always brush off any dirt, mud, etc. etc. where you are going to tie the knot.

There are 13 messages in this topic.