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General Climbing Discussion

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Havachatwithhexy... 29-May-2005 At 5:58:53 PM HEX

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A scary-short-story from the archives ...

'...Aiding pitch 5 or 6 of Ozymandias on the north wall of Buffalo and i decided to switch from aid to free mode to try and speed up the process. I was wearing runners not climbing shoes. I laybacked up some sort of expando flake and managed to kick out the wire I had placed at my feet. The previous bit of gear was a good 7m below that and suddenly i relaized that my Nike's don't grip onto granite like 5.10 rubber does! The feeling of being in a tenous layback move five pitches up Ozy in runners facing a 15m+ fall was totally freaky. I started sketching and shaking and seeing no gear nearby I managed to downclimb and whittle a replacment wire in using my feet and slump back onto my daisy chains. I promptly decided I wasn't going to try and free any more of this route and stayed in my aiders for the rest of the day...'

An awesome route howevayadoit ...

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