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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Bail biners

nmonteith
8/07/2003
6:10:56 PM
I just had an interesting thought. Over the years I have bootied a heap of bail biners from sport routes and have then have used them myself to bail off climbs that I couldn't do. What got me thinkign was that bail biners must 'progress up the grades' and eventually reach a hard route to live on permantly. The reasoning goes... i removed the bail biner originally because i could climb harder than the previous person. When i leave it behind the person who claims it will be stronger climber than myself. They will then leave it on something harder again. The cycle continues...

So i guess the moral is.. don't trust your life to some bail biner hanging on Punks!
joemor
8/07/2003
6:13:33 PM
so bail biners on easy stuff are safe?



nmonteith
8/07/2003
6:17:47 PM
I guess bail biners on easy stuff has come from a fresh bumbly with a shiny new rack?
joemor
8/07/2003
6:24:23 PM
if only there were more bail cams in the world!!!

Rupert
8/07/2003
6:26:31 PM
A couple of years ago Jerry and I finished off our weekend at Arapiles with a couple of easier routes up near Golden Fleece wall - we climbed this one route at dusk that had 5 brand new wires in a row left in it - it looked like the second hadn't quite understood what 'cleaning the gear' meant and had just unclipped the draws as he/she went past...

Hardware
8/07/2003
6:34:28 PM
Just a quick question guys what's a bail biner ?
kieranl
8/07/2003
11:20:52 PM
A bail biner is one that you leave behind when you need to retreat off a climb.
People often carry old biners to use for retreats. They might be good, they might be bad, who knows?
If you have to abseil and there is a karabiner on the abseil anchor then you should replace it. The karabiner is worth much less than your life.

climbau
10/07/2003
12:48:43 AM
I've known a couple of people that used to carry 6mm galvanised maillons from the hardware store to use as bail biners.
Andrew

nmonteith
10/07/2003
9:02:03 AM
I really don't like the idea of those crappy little malions. They are unrated - and they usually fill up the FH so youcan't clip a biner direct. It makes it a pain for everyone. When they rust shut the only way you can get them off is with pliers. I would think my life is worth more than $4.

Phil Box
10/07/2003
11:21:44 AM
I saw what happens to hardware store maillons when tested. They fail at miserably low loads. Don`t use them they are absolute crap, get the rated maillons. Be fastidious when choosing your maillons as sometimes the hardware variety get mixed in with the rated ones, they look almost identical.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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