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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Top roping in araps

LouK
16/04/2005
11:32:28 AM
First time up to Araps this weekend and looking for places i could top rope around the grade 18 mark... Any suggestions???

Iser
16/04/2005
12:31:12 PM
Plaque wall has a nice 17 (maximus) that is easily top-ropable, Dec crag has Little Thor (20), Lemmington (19) is also sweet, in the Organ Pipes, and fairly easy to set up a top-rope. I'm sure there's a shitload more, though, and probably more concentrated in the one place.

steph
16/04/2005
3:50:07 PM
Yeah we top-roped many climbs in declaration crag from a 17+ to a couple of 22s. That's the ideal area for it if you ask me cos no one has to lead to set them up at the top. You just climb around the back and you're safely there with convenient anchor points etc...

Other than that you might like to buy a guide book and check out single pitches around the main area.

sabu
17/04/2005
11:10:44 PM
i'd also say Bushrangers Bluff, that has easy stuff but im sure u can find some harder routes

shaggy
18/04/2005
7:38:24 AM
But all of the anchors require natural gear, no bolted anchors here.
climbingjac
18/04/2005
10:36:57 AM
As mentioned by someone else, an ideal toproping spot is where noone has to lead to get to the top first!

Suitable spots that spring to mind therefore include Bushrangers Bluff, Plaque Rock, Mitre Rock and Colossuem Wall.

LittleMac
18/04/2005
10:46:44 AM
Another area is also Charity Buttress although there arent to many routes in yor requested grade range on that wall. Hellpite etc are not to far away from here though and these routes can be top roped, just be cautious using those routes as the top rope setup can be slightly dicey due to some fragile rock etc (Hellspite area)
gfdonc
18/04/2005
11:31:43 AM
Belaying from the bottom or the top?

The top of Mari (*** 17) is fairly easy to get to, but at 40m (from memory) you will not have enough rope to reach the bottom twice (and would not want to belay on such a long rope due to stretch).
The Plaque area is the classic toproping venue. Check out Fang buttress as well.
Otherwise Mitre Rock (disclaimer: I've never climbed there!)
- Steve

billk
18/04/2005
12:30:26 PM
Colloseum wall has got an 18 (hard) and two 20/1s (one easyish on top rope) close together. Right around the corner from them there is the hardest grade 16 in the world but it might be ok to top rope. Just over from them there is a grade 15 crack which is quite nice.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/04/2005
1:44:29 PM
billk said
>Right around the corner from them there is the hardest grade 16 in the world but it might be ok to top rope.
LOL

billk
18/04/2005
2:55:11 PM
Forgotten the name of it but we bailed and so did some friends we asked about it. Really weird bulgy move not far off the deck.

LittleMac
18/04/2005
4:13:47 PM
That'd be Castration wouldn't it. It's not really that hard you just need to be a) strong and b) probably climbing 5 grades harder in order to make it feel easy. You're right though it's pretty stiff at the grade I reckon, but so is everything else out that way.

billk
18/04/2005
4:19:52 PM
I'll check the guidebook tonight.

Maybe it's "old school" because not too many gym climbs are set like that. I will also check through the "best excuses.." thread.

You're right, strength would definitely be an asset.
WM
18/04/2005
5:15:08 PM
Crucifixion is the 16 crack a few metres around the arete left of Christian Crack which is what it sounds like you're talking about. Just cause its got a bit of burly thrutching doesn't mean its harder than 16... :))

In fact the cracks at Colosseum Wall are all spot on for the grade if you can jam.

billk
18/04/2005
5:31:07 PM
Hi Will

Burly thrutching = old school

but you are probably dead right that it's 16 if you can jam. I will do five laps of the hand crack at Cliffhanger tomorrow nite for penance.
James
18/04/2005
10:20:21 PM
the crack at cliffhanger is hardly 'burly thrutching'....

LouK
19/04/2005
8:30:40 AM
Thanks guys... will bear in mind for next time... did top rope at bushrangers bluff and at dec crag. cheers.

Richard
19/04/2005
9:39:40 PM
i think (bad memory) some of the climbs on hellspite wall, and wizard of ice can be top roped as well, we did those (if said brain is correct) on our jamming course...

cheers

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

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