Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Scarpa: Scarpa "Mystic GTX" Approach Shoe. Premium model. Gortex lined. Vibram Sole. Climbing toe... Size 43 Eur. (10 USm)  $149.00
50% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Beta needed on Passport to insanity
sakeynes
12/04/2005
7:29:08 PM
Hi all,
I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldn't find it with the search function. I'm having a crack at Passort to Insanity soon, and I've got two questions.
1) I know the 1st pitch needs some big gear, but how big is big? I have a 4 camalot, do I need more? (assuming I don't want to really run it out since I'm shit at crack climbing)
2) I heard there were rap stations on top now, instead of having to set up the tyrolean. True or false?
Cheers
Stu

nmonteith
Online Now
13/04/2005
9:02:29 AM
I typed Passport into the search function and came up with five topics.... including one about rap anchors.
Onsight
13/04/2005
10:10:40 AM
Here's the earlier 2003 discussion here

I'm not sure whether the rap anchors were ever placed but if your topping out I'd recommend the Tyrolean anyway. (Take a headtorch!).

The guy is coming back from the top of Passport.
Apparently larger than #4 camalots may help a lot on the first pitch.

LittleMac
13/04/2005
10:35:30 AM
On 12/04/2005 sakeynes wrote:
>Hi all,
>I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldn't find it with the search
>function. I'm having a crack at Passort to Insanity soon, and I've got
>two questions.
>1) I know the 1st pitch needs some big gear, but how big is big? I have
>a 4 camalot, do I need more? (assuming I don't want to really run it out
>since I'm shit at crack climbing)
>2) I heard there were rap stations on top now, instead of having to set
>up the tyrolean. True or false?
>Cheers
>Stu
>

If you are going to be free climbing the first pitch (do this if you can) you will need at least 2 cams bigger than a #4 camalot (3 would be better or more). At about half height the crack begins to narrow consderably but the beginning is a true off width crack. You won't get much gear in the face down low (a couple of rp's maybe) and I wouldn't trust them if you do. You will get some gear outside the crack as you get higher.

The hardest part of the climb (if you are aiding the roof) is the section of crack directly below the roof (between the belay and the roof). And the top section (grade 18) is quite loose. As I am sure you are aware the roof takes #2 friends most of the way and gradually begins to widen to about a #2.5-#3 (bear in mind these are friends not camalots).

Don't underestimate the width of the crack it is quite large so take some big gear otherwise you will be dissapointed.

One quick tip for the roof, place a nut wide of the crack at the lip to stop the rope pulling up into the crack and jamming (a real pain in the arse).

There were some and always have been some rap anchors from the top. One set was via dodgy pins and should be avoided at all costs (I won't even explain how to find them) the others were set up using tape and have been there a while now so I don't know what condition they are in, to find these from memeory you need to to the back of the cliff scramble down a small gully a short way (slightly right) (looking at the main part of the cliff) and you'll find them (slings and carabiners) (multiple abseils). I did the tyrolene and it's not that hard to setup and is well worth the effort.

Hope this is of some help, if you want some more info, PM me and I'll sort you out as best I can.

Cheers

LittleMac

P.S Definitely take a headtorch.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a last minute thought, my advice is similar to others who have posted on this topic in the past. This is a very serious adventure route which has foiled many experienced parties in the past. Do not underestimate the difficulty involved in this route and if you do decide to go do it get some really good beta. Talk to others who have done it and avoid some of the common pitfalls. Remember this isn''t Araps and the ambos and rescue crews aren't 25 mins away (more like several hours (after you manage to contact them)). Having said this it is a fantastic route please remember to keep the amount of rubbish on the route to a minimum.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wendy
14/04/2005
8:12:37 PM
I've just put a photo of the gear I carried up passport on the character assasination thread. I had 18 bits of gear larger than a 3 camalot. I used all of them.

Find a more friendly offwidth to practise on if you're shit at crack climbing - maybe electra? It's not a dissimilar width, doesn't overhang and you only have a 2 minute walk to it.

Shaggy left some rope up there to rap off last summer, there are also some other bits of tat around there. They are right of the route (facing the cliff) and still involve some scrambling, best to get someone to show you on the topo.

The route is out there - we took one look at it and wished we'd gone to the movies instead ... There's interesting rock, interesting gear, interesting descent and most likely, interesting weather. It's much colder, wetter and less stable up there as it's high on the range. The road up there will be impassable after rain and parks will close it before too long and it's a much longer walk from the bottom. It's getting dark by 6.30 here at the moment, so you'll need a very very early start. Or wait for next summer. Good luck. Be careful.

shaggy
15/04/2005
4:59:05 PM

Here is the thread from the decent I left and tested.
Even Though Wendy used 18 peices larger than a 3 camalot on the fist pitch, you can get away with a 5 friend and a 4 1/2 camalot as we did, if your prepared to shuffle gear, and there is a bit of smaller stuff you can leave behind on the way up, ie smaller cams, wires, and slings.
The tip about the wire, or cam as we used, for the lip of the roof to stop the rope from falling into the crack and jamming, is essential.

nmonteith
Online Now
15/04/2005
5:13:56 PM
Here is some photos my epic attempt of Passport - in full winter conditions. You will see Nick doesn't seem to have much big gear on his rack - maybe two large cams at best.

http://www.mrppp.com.au/nhb/reports/050699.html
Wendy
15/04/2005
5:23:17 PM
And you though I was sick for GWO, Neil!

The 4.5 cam is the kit for the first pitch. About 5 of them! Lots of people seem to do passport on 1 or 2 big cams recycling them along the way. I personally wouldn't recommend it, firstly because I like to have more than 1 piece between me and the ground, but also because the inside of the crack warbles a lot and you'll be shuffling your piece from a good placement to some crappy ones. I slung the odd thing in the crack as well, but i didn't think the gear other than the big cams was very good, particularly after the first 5 or so metres.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/04/2005
2:31:59 PM
On 14/04/2005 Wendy wrote:
>I've just put a photo of the gear I carried up passport on the character
>assasination thread. I had 18 bits of gear larger than a 3 camalot. I
>used all of them.

Here is the link to make life easier for those who wish to find it.

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=6&MessageID=1645&Replies=16&PagePos=0&Sort=#newpost

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints