Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

DMM: Renegade SIZE LARGE. (2013 model) - Red piping... Adjustable Padded Harness, 7 Gear Loops Fits: Waist: 87-104cm Legs:55-70 cm N/B Waist belt padding floats - Awesome design IMO. Only 1 left!  $99.00
34% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
Author
Tick definitions

runnit
19/02/2005
11:53:07 PM
i've always thought a flash was an onsight, but with a bit of beta, so esentially ground up, but i've heard people say it can include pre-placed gear?

what's the general thought on this?

mousey
19/02/2005
11:58:15 PM
ill call it a flash if i have;
- no beta & gear in
- beta and placing gear
- beta and gear in
assuming of course that you have never tried the route before
im sure theres GOT to be a million oter threads on this already???
simey
20/02/2005
8:02:43 AM
Are you talking about a sport flash or a trad flash?

runnit
20/02/2005
10:27:49 AM
didn't know trad or sport made a difference. i was mainly asking about sport flash, but what's the difference for trad then?
simey
20/02/2005
6:03:05 PM
I was only kidding. But when you think about how much effort is involved with carrying and placing protection on naturally-protected routes, it does seem odd that you can claim flash and onsight ascents of such routes with the gear already in place.

alrob
20/02/2005
7:08:02 PM
the way i see it, an onsight is having no beta, no gear on the route, and sending it first shot. a redpoint is sending a route after 1 or more prior attempts, regardless of if the gear is already in or not. so i guess for me, a flash is defined as sending a route first shot, with all the possible assistance, be it beta or gear placed or rap inspection.

Clancy
21/02/2005
12:34:09 AM
I would say onsight is ground up no knowledge other than whats in the guidebook, no preplaced gear. IMO Flash in sports - either knowledge or preplaced gear (or both), but i would argue that to flash a trad climb it has to be placing the gear otherwise its pink point.
Goodvibes
21/02/2005
10:13:41 AM
Have to agree with you there clancy. Trad is all about the gear so if it is already there then sorry, but no flash for you.

As Josh pointed out, this kind of thing gets done to death but well..one more time can't hurt.






steph
21/02/2005
10:24:35 AM
The grading system is set so it includes the difficulty of trad/sport placements on outdoor rock. so yeah, place the gear, call it a flash or whatever you like but be sure to drop the grade by 3 or so.
gfdonc
21/02/2005
1:28:15 PM
OK so (for argument's sake) what happens if you turn up to have a shot at a route and someone's already on it?
You wait, then send the route ground-up first shot with no preplaced gear.
Is seeing someone on it enough beta to disqualify the onsight?

nmonteith
21/02/2005
1:30:56 PM
On 21/02/2005 gfdonc wrote:
>You wait, then send the route ground-up first shot with no preplaced gear.
>Is seeing someone on it enough beta to disqualify the onsight?


yep - disqualified!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/02/2005
2:27:04 PM
On 21/02/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>yep - disqualified!
Unless your intention is to aid climb it?
... While flying past (in my dreams?) I saw ...
:P
gfdonc
21/02/2005
3:53:59 PM
On 21/02/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>yep - disqualified!

Aww, c'mon .. what if you weren't looking closely?????

shiltz
21/02/2005
4:12:24 PM
What if somebody has left ugly great tick marks beneath all of the critical holds? Some crags resemble climbing gyms with white holds, others have little or no chalk. Make you call!
I'll think of something even more pedantic later on if I get bored...

GG
21/02/2005
4:17:26 PM
All this doesn't matter. Just tell yourself and anyone who listens that you go the Onsight.

oweng
21/02/2005
5:03:22 PM
When I was at Uni I had a bet with a mate that I couldnt on-site a route at Mitre Rock (a 19 finger crack thats name escapes me). I was climbing with another friend who was keen to climb it, but I was stuffed and didnt feel up to leading it.

I told him I was happy to belay him on the understanding that I would be keeping my eyes averted / closed the whole time to save the on-site (so if he fell he should yell so I new to lock off). He also had to rap the route to get the gear out.

This worked well, but was an exercise in futility as much dogging occured when I went back to lead if a month or so later. Bet lost. Ethical purity maintained.

Alex
21/02/2005
8:47:24 PM
When I was at Uni I had a bet with a mate that I couldnt on-site a route at Mitre Rock (a 19 finger crack thats name escapes me).

Acapulco Gold I assume?

oweng
22/02/2005
7:36:35 AM
On 21/02/2005 Alex wrote:
> When I was at Uni I had a bet with a mate that I couldnt on-site a
>route at Mitre Rock (a 19 finger crack thats name escapes me).
>
>Acapulco Gold I assume?
>

Yep, thats the one!

Breezy
22/02/2005
8:33:57 AM
On 21/02/2005 oweng wrote:
>I told him I was happy to belay him on the understanding that I would
>be keeping my eyes averted / closed the whole time to save the on-site
>(so if he fell he should yell so I new to lock off).

This is apparently a quite common occurence in Europe, so as both climbers may attempt the onsight.

Eduardo Slabofvic
22/02/2005
9:30:02 AM
It's very common in Queensland as well, where no one looks at what the leader is doing either.

"Why does the rope keep going tight???"

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
There are 28 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints