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When does bouldering become soloing?


Nick Kaz

7-Dec-2004
11:32:16 AM

Yesterday arvo a mate and I headded off to a local seacliff for a swim and boulder, the cliffs are around 3-9m high maby more with a good fall into water so no pads required. Afterward we were discussing weather we were infact DWS or just bouldering over water, certainly the 3m walls would be bouldering, but if the other cliffs were over land they would ceratiny be roped climbs. So whats the go? Is it different over water? and where do you draw the line between a solo and a boulder?


Breezy

7-Dec-2004
11:34:18 AM

I think that if the route / boulder would have bolts in it if it were over land then it could be considered a DWS, if you would boulder it over land then i guess its a boulder prob.

climberman

7-Dec-2004
11:44:39 AM

Nick, was that around Newy way ?


Nick Kaz

7-Dec-2004
12:35:43 PM

On 7/12/2004 climberman wrote:
>Nick, was that around Newy way ?

yep, out towards Nelson bay.

Ronny

7-Dec-2004
1:43:40 PM

what about when you top-rope a (highball) boulder problem prior to climbing it?? I had some friends in Canada who insisted that if a problem was done this way it was really a "rope rehearsed free solo", and couldn't be ticked as a boulder problem.

I guess by analogy this means if you on-sight solo a route you can tick it as a boulder prob?!?!

Onsight

7-Dec-2004
2:09:40 PM

On 7/12/2004 Nick Kaz wrote:
>...Afterward we were discussing weather we
>were infact DWS or just bouldering over water, certainly the 3m walls would
>be bouldering, but if the other cliffs were over land they would ceratiny
>be roped climbs. So whats the go? Is it different over water? and where
>do you draw the line between a solo and a boulder?

DWS is really cool fun eh?

Sounds like you're about to define a new style of climbing: "Deep-Water Bouldering". And from my experience of DWS I don't really think it's necessary. As far as I'm concerned if it's over (deep) water then it's DWS. Hence my caption to this pic:

>“Deep-water soloing” doesn’t mean you have to go high. Monique Forestier,
>Jess Corrie and Bean Sopwith enjoy a sea-level traverse on Mana Island.

Which of course isn't to say that it doesn't get really high and dangerous as well. There has already being one DWS fatality. I've seen someone rupture a lung. Enemas are not uncommon.

I just prefer people to be aware that it's not always as simple and safe as it may seem (in case they want to try it - particularly higher problems).

Anyway, there's a preview/trailer from that recent Croatia DWS trip that you can check out here: http://www.x1sports.com/X1_content.html
(Broadband helps).

dalai

7-Dec-2004
2:26:43 PM

Another DWS video is of Ken Palmer soloing Christine 8a in South Devon

Set In Stone (12MB)

http://www.bigpebbles.co.uk/media/video/sis.wmv


Breezy

7-Dec-2004
2:27:19 PM

On 7/12/2004 Onsight wrote:

>Which of course isn't to say that it doesn't get really high and dangerous
>as well. There has already being one DWS fatality. I've seen someone rupture
>a lung. Enemas are not uncommon.

Sounds like heapsa fun :P


Rich

7-Dec-2004
2:53:41 PM

any further details on the fatality?

Onsight

7-Dec-2004
3:26:31 PM

On 7/12/2004 Rich wrote:
>any further details on the fatality?

>April 2004 saw the first Deepwater Soloing fatality when UK climber Damien Cook drowned in cold, rough, waters in Majorca.

Apparently there were no rescuers standing by. The water was too rough to get out in the normal spot so he tried swimming around a headland but didn't make it. Cold water might have been a factor.

There's some further DWS info on my site at:
http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/overseas/uk/dorset/index.htm


Nick Kaz

7-Dec-2004
6:14:42 PM

>DWS is really cool fun eh?

It shure is, I tried a little there last year but coulden't pull out of the water in too much, I don't have a boat, this year I'm a little stronger (and smarter, we decided to traverse in) and it was a blast. It was a strange feeling though, normaly I love jumping off big things, but once I was climbing taking a dip from a few meters up seemed like a big thing!

Damn straight about hurting falling off too, I remember one summer jumping off a bridge and bruising under my arms quite a bit. Although I have so far avoided an enima :) Thanks for showing us the trailer, now I have to go and dip into my student funds for dvds. Thats a good clip too dalai, glad i have broadband.

If I get around to talking someone into bringing his camera next time there may even be photos.

Goodvibes

8-Dec-2004
9:34:25 AM

DWS aside, if you are prepared to fall off it, it is a boulder problem. If you aren't prepared to fall then it is a solo.


nmonteith

8-Dec-2004
9:37:44 AM

Perfect definition Muncher!

mikl law

8-Dec-2004
10:30:33 AM

When your spotters run away

dalai

8-Dec-2004
11:35:20 AM

Reminds me of a high ball boulder problem at Hueco Tanks - aptly titled "See Spot Run"

SDS to See Spot Run is Dark Ages. Video link

http://www.huecorockranch.com/video/Video%20Pages/Dark.php 15.5MB (Broadband suggested)

Onsight

8-Dec-2004
1:24:20 PM

On 8/12/2004 mikl law wrote:
>When your spotters run away

"Hey fellas!!!

Come back fellas...

Arrr crikey... help... please... I'm pumping...

... arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr."


LittleJames

9-Dec-2004
12:54:50 AM

Yeah I'll reinforce that DWS isn't risk-free. After seeing a girl do nasty things to her back at last year's DWS-festival at Connor Cove, I've always been a bit edgy about it.

To say nothing of that damn slackline that broke under me and almost sent me plunging onto sharp rocks...

Dave C

9-Dec-2004
2:47:45 AM

Another one is when a suitably attractive young lady happens to walk past and your spotters get distracted just as you slip off the nasty rounded slopers at the top.
Ouch!


rodw

9-Dec-2004
8:52:01 AM

Thats why you mix your spotters up with both sexes, at least someone will be paying attention:)

Dave C

9-Dec-2004
9:37:51 AM

On 9/12/2004 rodw wrote:
>Thats why you mix your spotters up with both sexes, at least someone will
>be paying attention:)

Only problem is they are often only paying attention to each other.

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