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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Ivan the terrible

elmo_lives
21/10/2004
10:59:04 AM
If I had enough explosives, I might be tempted to go to Araps and destroy Ivan (12). Anything would improve it. ANYTHING. If someone threw the dead carcass of a sheep into that awkward rightward leading crack, then the first climber to see it would say, “Whoa, check it out. Ivan looks I bit more attractive now aye”

Mike
21/10/2004
11:33:59 AM
I agree it's tough for the grade, especially when you're just using it as a supposedly quick means of getting to the ledge below Blockbuster and hadn't really anticipated an epic struggle, but that's where the fun of it lies. Given that it's well protected (assuming you dragged the right gear up there), suddenly finding yourself struggling even though you're 10 grades below you're limit is rather a hoot. For me, there's more fun to had from Ivan than crusing up something graded much harder, but that totally suits your style and therefore presents little challege. Long live Ivan!
Pietro_2003
21/10/2004
1:31:25 PM
On 21/10/2004 Mike wrote:
>Given that it's well protected (assuming you dragged the right
>gear up there),

And what 'right' gear would that be? (or isn't it kosher to ask for beta)

A mate of mine wants to climb Blockbuster and suggested that 'I' take him up Ivan :-0 I've lead a couple
of single pitch 15s previously (and most of the multi 10s&11s) but don't want to get psyched out on this if
it turns out to be an ordeal... or is it a fun kind of ordeal?

Cheers, Petter.
Nottobetaken
21/10/2004
1:47:20 PM
Put it this way - it is a way better option than the Keyhole - but here's some valuable advice: Don't do it carrying a backpack of any kind.
JohnK
21/10/2004
1:57:37 PM
Back in May when I spend a week at Araps I met Youseff (the long time resident) in tent city who was like leading low to mid 20's.
His comment was "...yeah...Ivan, mmmm....I remember that climb, 12 meters....yep, I placed 9 pieces of gear!....."
Undaunted, we flew up the Bard, and then I jumped on Ivan placing 7 pieces of gear! The guy I was with was leading 21 trad at the time and was not keen to second with his day pack on, so we pack hauled it up!
It's not that bad really, it's just an awkward little crack that has some twists and turns in it rather than beight straight. You'll be right Petter, it's a safe climb, there is very good protection all the way. Alternatively do the grade 18 crack to the right.

Mike
21/10/2004
2:53:55 PM
On 21/10/2004 Pietro_2003 wrote:
>And what 'right' gear would that be? (or isn't it kosher to ask for beta)

A weird little two move start puts you on a ledge. You then walk right 3m or so to the start of the crack proper, which is really only oh I don't know 6m high? Shove your back against the right side of the crack (this is where the day pack sucks), reach high, step up, pop in a small cam or nut, then the fun begins. Some more moves, a couple of good nuts (if you want them), and you're at the crux; a little rightwards facing crack with poor feet. Here you can drop in a #3 camalot. A jug high on your left lures but is useless when combined with the monstor sidepull on your right. Go the side pull, smear the feet, hope, and if all else fails, dog the camalot. After that it eases off to a ramp finish. The start of block buster is about 3m left on the ledge you arrive at.

Have fun! It's a comical pitch. I was laughing at myself the whole way. The only danger I could see would be popping off the start of the crack proper, because your belayer is out of sight and some distance horizontally, meaning a nut might be tugged out by the rope, and you wouldn't need much rope streach at all to hit the ledge. But doing it in two pitches, one of which would be barely 5m seems a pain for something that is "only a 12".

It's a giggle! Blockbuster at one grade less will seem like a ladder.
Duncan
21/10/2004
9:58:29 PM
Yep, Ivan is great! Scared the crap out of me though...

shaggy
21/10/2004
10:24:50 PM
Yup, Yosef and myself have had a chuckle about that little gem many times, and every time we walked past it or wanted access up to the bluffs, we have always said that we would rather solo scorpion corner in bare feet (something that we obviously wouldn't do) than ever climb that again! But really, it's just awkward and wierd.
Steve M
22/10/2004
1:22:44 PM
It's one of those climbs that makes me think that maybe in years past they were better at grovelling thier way up climbs.

phil box
22/10/2004
3:35:28 PM
On 22/10/2004 Steve M wrote:
>It's one of those climbs that makes me think that maybe in years past they
>were better at grovelling thier way up climbs.

You rang. Did I hear crack mentioned. you guys have no notion of awkward crack until you`ve tried Venom at Frog, now that is one nasty crack. I`ve managed to sucker, err, I mean sandbag, err, I mean coax two hard men climbers to have a go at it and, well, the language was somewhat blue so to speak.

Ivan sounds like a fun climb, I`ll hafta put it on my tick list.

shaggy
22/10/2004
3:37:22 PM
Hey Phil, have you tried Five fingered Mary yet? Now thats an awkward grovel!
BA
22/10/2004
5:37:04 PM
What about Aristocrat? It's in the same general area as Ivan and I reckon it's an awkward bugger as well.

adski
22/10/2004
6:01:34 PM
It's kinda scary that both those routes are on my hitlist..
kieranl
22/10/2004
8:05:37 PM
I must confess that I think The Keyhole is an absolute hoot both up and down and I'd do that before Ivan any day.
Possibly the most fun access to the Blockbuster ledge is to traverse left from the start of Kama Sutra to the start of Scorpion - somewhere around 14-16. You arrive all warmed up and excited without having done anything very hard.
Dave C
22/10/2004
9:11:48 PM
On 22/10/2004 kieranl wrote:
>I must confess that I think The Keyhole is an absolute hoot both up and
>down and I'd do that before Ivan any day.
I agree Kieran. Did the keyhole a couple of times and while it's somewhat repulsive it is at least quite easy.

>Possibly the most fun access to the Blockbuster ledge is to traverse left
>from the start of Kama Sutra to the start of Scorpion - somewhere around
>14-16. You arrive all warmed up and excited without having done anything
>very hard.

Definitely the best way. The first time I ever went to the Piles I was taken up this way and I remember it as being much the most enjoyable way to reach the ledge.

Did Ivan once & while it wasn't hard it was definitely awkward & not a very good route.

Richard
24/10/2004
9:39:00 PM
On 21/10/2004 Pietro_2003 wrote:
>And what 'right' gear would that be? (or isn't it kosher to ask for beta)

A standard rack should be fine - i think i just used nuts and 1 reasonably large hex 1/2 way up. maybe a few cams. But you don't need anything special.

You have to earn each move - definately an old timers climb, looks not to bad but just never lets you get a cruisy move - it will test your full range of techniquies.. !!

Cheers
Pietro_2003
24/10/2004
11:33:18 PM
On 24/10/2004 Richard wrote:
> A standard rack should be fine - it will test your full range of techniquies.. !!

Looks like we'll be giving it a go this coming weekend... provided there isn't a que waiting to send
it due to the 'good' wraps it been getting here :-D


There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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