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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Rappel Station set up 17-Jun-2019 At 7:27:12 AM gfdonc
Hmm once again I find myself agreeing with ODH, at least in part:

On 16-Jun-2019 One Day Hero wrote:
>Equalization doesn't matter. Loweroffs will never be loaded past 3kN and
>a U bolt probably holds 30kN. The second one is just backup in case you
>fuched up placing the first one.
Agree. Equalising them is a good way to twist ropes.

>Welcome to the reality of establishing routes with proper hardware. It's
>fuching expensive, so make sure the climb is good enough to be worth it.
Yep, and anyway you only need one rap station per route (or multiple routes), so is it really that important to skimp in the overall scheme of things?

>>Is there any other safe, price friendly rap station set ups out there
>>climbers are happy enough to use?
>Nope. In hard rock you can use expansion bolts and those Fixe hangers
>with captive rap rings. In soft rock, the standard is U bolts or ring bolts
>with mallions and rap rings as needed to prevent wear. Either way will
>be more than twenty bucks.
I've previously imported SS hardware in bulk from a Taiwanese climbing equipment mfr, 23kN rated rings that look identical to the Fixe item. Freight on moderate quantities of metal is a killer.

>Why would you install gal hardware in 2019? If it's worth bolting, it's
>worth full stainless so that some sucker doesn't have to go back in 2035
>to fix your shoddy work.

My current preferred setup is a SS ring with a second backup using 8mm SS chain.
That way the second bolt can be a decent length away from the first hole (supposed to be 20cm according to Petzl), and the flexibility of the chain prevents rope twisting.
It also means you get a higher anchor-point to clip in with (on a second hanger or even through the chain, as 8mm is large enough to clip a biner). This is useful when approaching from above. If you get the lengths right it's virtually equalised, too.

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