Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 28-May-2018 At 7:20:10 PM One Day Hero

Message

On 27-May-2018 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>Because most people have adhered to the existing guidelines, have they
>not?

There are no existing guidelines which are readily followed. The bolts are coming, it just took a while for bumblies with drills to feel entitled enough in Victoria (given the ludicrously good easy trad climbing on offer).
>
>Did the other parts of the country with squeeze job routes start out with
>a mix of sport/mixed/trad in a similar ethic that the Grampians currently
>has?

No, they all started out with a ground up ethic because it was the 60s. Modern ideas of trad and sport would have been utterly incomprehensible. Sport climbing didn't exist at all till the 80s, and not really in Australia till the 90s. It wasn't recognized as a colonial threat to other styles until quite recently. Also, it's not up to me or anyone else to educate you. Read up on climbing history.
>
>If that's your intent, then you need to influence more people than you
>chop bolts, and in that aim, you might catch more flies with honey.

Who the hell catches flies with honey? I use mortein.

>>Why do you want bolts next to perfectly good gear placements? If a route
>>is safe as trad or mixed, why would you personally want it to be sport
>>bolted?
>
>I don't want that everywhere - just noting that I think it would be good
>to have a handful of crags with routes in the aforementioned grade range.

I've answered your questions. Can you actually answer this one?

>I believe that's possible, I don't believe the slippery slope argument.

There are bolts going in, if bolts continue to go in there will be more bolts, there is no current mechanism to control the increase in bolts. This is not a slippery slope argument.