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General Climbing Discussion

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New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 7-May-2018 At 10:41:30 AM IdratherbeclimbingM9

Message

On 7-May-2018 PThomson wrote:
>(snip)
>If the piton isn't necessary, then remove it... but don't pretend your honouring the FA in doing so,
>on the basis that the FA thought it necessary in the first place.
>
Back when the piton was placed there were likely other elements also under consideration, such as leaving it to indicate the line the route takes (along with making it safer for others to follow).
They were expensive / sometimes hard to obtain / heavy to lug up routes into unknown virgin territory; and used sparingly as a consequence; ... which also happily fitted with the minimalist protection style of climbing often practiced during those days.

>(snip)
>
>But don't kid yourselves that it's not a bolt. (in fact, I'd argue that it's a more destructive bolt).
>
>- Paul

Pitons are not bolts and were certainly not used indiscriminately on blank faces like bolts are these days.
:)

The bit that says it all for me (that has been posted above somewhere), is that the route has had countless repeat ascents; usually with the piton clipped, but seldom if ever taken advantage of re having it actually hold a fall, so the route is do-able, though with the added psychological advantage of having it as part of a protection system.