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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer |
7-May-2018 At 10:03:26 AM |
IdratherbeclimbingM9
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Message |
>New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer
:(
On 7-May-2018 gfdonc wrote:
>I do think horrible old fixed gear (surely any piton qualifies) should eventually be replaced. "Normal maintenance".
>If it was warranted on the FA then leave history as-is.
>I hear Neil's argument and yes there's some trad around there I can't recall getting any good options in the corner and the rock on that left wall is soft.
>So I vote 'leave'. Otherwise why didn't you pull the piton years ago?
>
@ "surely any piton qualifies" -
As a 'blanket statement' I disagree, but admit to situational differences dictating quality and outcome of piton longevity.
A case in point being that after good quality bolted retro belays appeared on Defender Of The Faith (years ago) at Mt Buffalo, I removed what I thought to be an original crappy (it thunked instead of pinged when hit with a hammer), redundant piton adjacent one of them and located sufficiently remote from the belay that it no longer served a purpose,along with occupying a trad style placement.
It proved to be one of the harder pitons to remove that I've experienced!
It had some slight surface corrosion but being a mild steel type had malformed to agree with a ziggle shaped crack and was a real bear to remove... I reckon it would've been good for at least double the life that it had.
+1 to Nmonteith's post about the topic item, other than the bit about retroing seldom repeated classic real estate to make them popular ascent items.
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