Goto Chockstone Home

  Tech Tips

      Sponsored By

Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
belaying seconds on a multipitch 11-Apr-2016 At 3:55:34 PM phillipivan
In general I think belaying off the anchor is a better option. However there are a number of scenarios where I prefer to belay off the harness, these include: if the anchor is by necessity in an annoying location, too low, off to side, perhaps if the device would unavoidably get pulled into an annoying crack (can't think of a time that's been an issue); if the anchor is kinda shit and my stance is part of the belay; if the second is moving fast on easy ground; or if the particularly combination of autoblock device, rope and belay biner creates a metric ass ton of friction. In general only the last two scenarios might have me contemplate a redirected belay, which I only do very infrequently.

As is often the case in climbing it's best to be competent and comfortable with a range of solutions and approach each situation with an adaptable mindset.

Edit to add: I think too much is made of the safety arguments for using an autoblock - that it will continue to function with a belayer of unreliable consciousness (for whatever reason), ease of escaping the belay, etc. The immediate value lies in letting the belayer direct their attention to other tasks like eating, drinking, sorting the rack, or butt scratching without it being any less safe for the second; additionally if the second is going to fall a lot and hang around on the rope, it's generally a drag to have to hold that weight from your harness.

There are 57 replies to this topic.


Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.

Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints