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General Climbing Discussion

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Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 22-Feb-2016 At 11:37:16 AM simey

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I'm glad to hear CJ that you see the merit in yo-yoing, even though I realise it can easily slide into the murky grey area.

I reckon Goshen summed things up pretty well...

On 15/02/2016 Goshen wrote:
>The purest style of roped climbing is onsight trad, placing gear, without
>pre-inspection. Anything after this is a grey area; and can always be
>done in a better style, although hard trad is almost never done in this
>pure style anyway.

I love how climbing in the UK uses E grades which are meant to indicate the seriousness of going ground-up on a route, yet most ascents of hard, bold routes over there are heavily rehearsed and top-roped beforehand. It seems weird to be able to claim an ascent of say an E9 even though you didn't climb it in the required manner.

Personally I've got no issue with top-rope ascents. Climbing on pre-placed gear with long slings on pieces to minimise run-out sections (Wendy - I'm talking to you!) is so contrived. Why bother doing that if you have already successfully top-roped it?