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General Climbing Discussion

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Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 21-Feb-2016 At 11:35:35 PM simey

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CJ, I'm surprised at all your focus with regard placing gear on the lead, but you don't seem to give two hoots about whether the first ascentionist resorted to prior abseil inspection or top-roping.

I would give more credit to a ground-up yo-yoing approach than I would do to a redpoint ascent after heavy rehearsal, particularly on bold routes.

I also think that removing gear after every attempt just isn't practical on a lot of routes. As Dave Jones mentioned... Malcolm's idea of placing gear on lead from the ground on the day of the send (without dogging it in) is a good practical approach. If you fall, lower off, pull your ropes and try again.

And if you are going ground-up and have expended a lot of energy leading some terrifying run-out before falling off on safer climbing up higher, then treat yourself to the top-rope to your high point on your next effort. Yo-yoing in this fashion still beats the crap out of inspecting it on abseil or rehearsing the shit out of it on top-rope beforehand.