Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Cleaning Overhanging Sport
jakegriffsyd
7-Oct-2014
11:14:55 AM
Hey All,

Please provide constructive advice, all will be considered.

When cleaning an overhanging route it seems like the best option is to have a climber second the route, clean on the way up and then rap down.

But over than that, can you provide some advice or the best way to clean a route if this is not an option. There is the usual cleaning way, lower then pull in and get back onto way to take weight off--I have witnessed this way to be a little dangerous when a very large swing is involved in the last clip.
ie, belayer isnt strong enough to climb it again; really long route and time is running out(Climber too pumped to go again straight again, obvs avoid this situation)

Kinda just want confirmation that seconding is the best option and should be practiced on overhanging routes.

------------
JG

nmonteith
7-Oct-2014
12:55:23 PM
Two techniques that most climbers use...

Tramling - attach a quickdraw between your harness and the rope on the non-climber side of the toprope. As the climber is lowered by belayer the quickdraw keeps the climber close to the cliff.As you reach each bolt on the way down you need to unclip the 'tramlining' quickdraw and put it below the quickdraw you want to remove. Most of the time you need to hang onto some holds to do this transfer.

Backjumping - on really steep routes just unclip the anchor and backjump to the previous bolt. Repeat all the way down the route. At the last bolt either downclimb to the ground or rethread the bottom bolt and lower-off.
kieranl
7-Oct-2014
1:01:08 PM
It's safer to leave the first draw clipped and then climb back up from the ground to retrieve it. No problem if the route has been properly bolted. Without the redirection and friction from that draw, the swing when the last draw is unclipped can be much worse than you expect.
mikllaw
7-Oct-2014
1:43:38 PM
Or if the first bolt is desperate to get to; tramline down to it and clip in. Then pull the rope from the anchors and thread the first ring (won't work on fixed hangers) and lower or rap.
maxdacat
8-Oct-2014
10:06:40 AM
Yeah but you don't swing from the last clip, best to swing from the 2nd last. Clip in to the second, then reach down and get the first, then MAKE SURE your belayer has taken in ALL SLACK and then some, then swing out.
martym
8-Oct-2014
11:44:38 AM
So what about hauling up half your rope, and abseiling down with one end still through the drawers? You could even get the belayer to hold tight to reduce swing..

You'll always need to grab a hold to unweight the rope though, which will also add to the swing factor.
TimP
8-Oct-2014
11:56:59 AM
How about placing pro within reach of the belayer or on the ground to help the belayer keep tension on the rope to reduce the swing as the last runner is unclipped — tram-line right to the deck? Would have to pre-set something before the climb that the belayer can clip before lowering.

2G
8-Oct-2014
12:43:35 PM
I think it's necessary to practice backjumping and rethreading if you're goiing to be doing lots of steep stuff. Usually it's quickest and often you don't need to rethread if climbing to the first bolt is not too hard.

I find a the extra length of a PAS useful for tramlining on steep stuff - sometimes it allows you to reach a better hold that a quickdraw wouldn't
Jayford4321
8-Oct-2014
1:38:32 PM
On 8/10/2014 2G wrote:
>I find a the extra length of a PAS useful for tramlining on steep stuff
>- sometimes it allows you to reach a better hold that a quickdraw wouldn't

Although a pas can be used that way, they aren't specifically rated for that application, and a much better item to use would be a Daisy due to being longer and having greater fine tuning of length required ability.
kieranl
8-Oct-2014
2:01:50 PM
On 8/10/2014 gnaguts wrote:
>On 8/10/2014 2G wrote:
>>I find a the extra length of a PAS useful for tramlining on steep stuff
>>- sometimes it allows you to reach a better hold that a quickdraw wouldn't
>
>Although a pas can be used that way, they aren't specifically rated for
>that application, and a much better item to use would be a Daisy due to
>being longer and having greater fine tuning of length required ability.

I was wondering how long it would take. Less than an hour to troll for another PAS vs daisy war.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints