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General Climbing Discussion

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Black Hill Carrots

Mark R

7-Oct-2014
11:04:36 AM

General warning regarding the fixed hangers on Pumping Ugly Muscle wall, which are placed with stainless 316 carrots:

Yesterday when a colleague fell on second the second bolt on bon voyage fell out. It was a SS 316 carrot with 33mm only in the rock, tapered to 5mm. Plenty of people have fallen on these bolts and in good granite they are probably OK if the force angles line up. They can clearly pull on out pull (eg on second or trying to dog up off a bolt on lead). If climbing on Pumping Ugly Muscle or Ugly Voyage use extreme caution. These routes will be rebolted in the near future. Bon Voyage is now solo to the third bolt (which is also questionable)... so you may wish to wait until rebolted (or feel free to rebolt in good form noting that the second bolt has always been considered poorly placed and needs to come down approx 1foot to decrease the current risk of ground fall)

Who knows what this all means for the many other carrot routes in the park but suffice to say if they move in your hand they are not safe!

nmonteith

7-Oct-2014
11:10:33 AM

Someone told me a story once about taking a newbie to Black Hill. The experienced climber led the route, the second followed. When the newbie arrived at the top he handed over a handful of bolt plates, and the bolts!!!!!

MisterGribble

7-Oct-2014
12:24:51 PM

Was the newbie Chuck Norris ?

mikllaw

7-Oct-2014
1:39:55 PM

carrot sin hard rock are always prone to this type of failure as they have a severe taper, and are only holding for a short portion of their length. And if they are stainless they don't have rust holding them in.

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