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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Blue Mountains recommendations
ericx
24/03/2014
8:48:58 PM
My wife and I are going to the Blue Mountains for a weeks climbing. Can anyone recommend some areas that include both a single pitch 14 to 16 for my wife to second, and stuff between 18 and 22 for me to lead and clean. Sport routes or trad, but please, no great dramas, this is a holiday. Also any good cafes, restaurants, B+Bs etc; spare no secret information.

Duang Daunk
24/03/2014
8:50:37 PM
Mt Piddington, has the grades you need, and Mt Vic is nearby for the rest.

sbm
24/03/2014
9:35:04 PM
Another recommendation for Piddington, it has the trad climbs you want. Recommend Joseph, SSCC 1, The Cartheginian, The Phantom, Tombstone Wall, Angular Crack, and Faith as easier climbs and in the 18-22 range just follow the stars.

Abseil Gully at Mt Boyce for more good trad climbs

Bardens Lookout for sport climbs in that range.

The Mezzaluna and Obituary areas at Mt York.

I consult the Fat Canyoner's Good Grub Guide for eating out. I prefer to get my coffee from Altitude Cafe in Blackheath.

timfreddo
24/03/2014
9:35:34 PM
trad - sometimes a bit hard to clean if it's not being seconded. usually its 1 lower-off/rap anchor serving a section of the cliff
places for trad- piddington, zig zag, mt boyce (walk down gully area).

sport- not a whole bunch under 18, but enough for a week.
mt york- mezzaluna area for easy sport (some trad climbs can be scary at mt york)
bardens lookout
shipley upper (goog crimping, but not much under 18)
centenial glen for the steep stuff or if its rainy... (nothing under 18)

multi-pitch-
sweet dreams in leura is a good easy 3 pitch climb
Tom Thumb is a nice easy adventure in a more remote setting (need double ropes to rap in)

Cafe's and the rest- annonomous cafe in blackheath for coffee. good town for all the rest too. Katoomba is a bit busier, mt vic is a bit quiet...

Have fun. buy some bolt plates if your from overseas...
tarjebargheer
25/03/2014
12:27:51 AM
I found Dam Cliffs near Bell a pleasant day out - especially if the weather is for swimming as well - some short but quite interesting scoopy rock around in the grade range you are after - and more than one good low-teen sport climb; these are mostly on spaced carrots, so not ideal for building confidence in leading - but good for seconding.
ericx
25/03/2014
11:18:01 AM
Thanks for all the information and advice, we really appreciate it, I've printed it all out.
Regards Eric.
peteclimbs
25/03/2014
11:56:37 AM
Good (albeit a bit pricey) feed at Leura Garage in....you guessed it.
martym
25/03/2014
1:34:44 PM
On 24/03/2014 ericx wrote:
>but please, no great dramas, this is a holiday.
Medlow Bath is one of the easiest access areas in the blueys with grades in your area - a few minor classics as well.

If you're out at Mt York - get on Exhibition Wall, great line.

deadbudgy
26/03/2014
8:34:43 AM
Is Mt York open for climbing again after the fires?

timfreddo
30/03/2014
10:05:13 AM
yep. just not echo gully, or the walk around from bardens to shady side...

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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