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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolted route near the Mt Hay/Butterbox canyon exit 14-Jan-2014 At 7:28:11 AM PThomson
Message
Regarding to the new route at the Butterbox Canyon Exit (Which I think is a completely unrelated topic to placing bolts in the canyons themselves, though this thread seems to be working its way onto THAT tangent), I'm with martym and citationx on this one in ...

There have been trad, bolted and mixed climbs in the vicinity of the Butterbox canyon exit track since forever, and if you look around a bit you will spot them on the walk out. Why should someone NOT choose to bolt another route which -coincidentally- might be better climbing than the original doddle exit. Furthermore, you most definately AREN'T in the canyon when you get to that section of rock, so it's hardly "retroing the canyon".

Besides, the original canyon was always done dropping down into the Grose and exiting via a few possible horrible bush-bashes. If you want to call ANYTHING retroing a Canyon, the precedent was set when the CURRENT Butterbox canyon exit was bolted.

Why does bolting a new route (accepting the ethics of not bolting a PURE trad route) need to seek permission? And short of publishing details on TheCrag or Sydney Rockies, there are thousands of undocumented bolted routes in the Blueys. A lot of climbers don't subscribe the the new-school philosophy of using social media to log routes.

Seriously, this is just looking for controversy for the sake of being controversial, it's not even based on any rational argument.

There are 18 replies to this topic.

 

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