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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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First in best dressed? |
9-Apr-2013 At 6:33:45 PM |
Olbert
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Message |
On 9/04/2013 rowan wrote:
>On 9/04/2013 Chris Coghill wrote:
>>On 8/04/2013 rowan wrote:
>>.
>>> To quote Chris Coggil "It's great down there as it's
>>>not national park so you can cut down as many trees as you want."
>>
>>
>>By way of clarification... I have not cut down any trees at Elphinstone.
>>This was a completely "tongue-in-cheek" comment that I made at one time
>>(ie, I was being sarcastic!). It has nothing to do with how I feel about
>>the situation.
>>
>>About the crack down at Pole 28, Neil is right. I had no idea that anybody
>>had tried it before. I went down to belay Neil or bundy and saw the crack.
>>There was no chalk and no signs that it had been tried before. There
>was
>>quite a bit of loose rock, so I assumed it had never been tried (or cleaned).
>>
>> I tried it for a little while on trad, even borrowing a 00 Friend from
>>Lee Cossey. After a few days, I became a bit worried that some of my
>gear
>>was tracking through the crack, so I added a couple of bolts.
>>Eventually I decided that the route was pretty short and obscure, and
>>I may as well just fully bolt it to fit with all the other funny little
>>sport routes at the crag. I had no idea that anybody else was keen to
>try
>>it on gear.
>>To tell the truth, it's probably better as a trad climb... as a sport
>>route it's really pretty short and average, but adding the gear placement
>>and ground fall potential (it's only about 4 metres high) makes it more
>>of an interesting challenge. I'm not really keen to test the gear again,
>>but I'm sure others are.
>>I have no problems with the route being chopped, just hope it has been
>>done more neatly than you did the Elphinstone one, rowan!
>
>Sorry if you had nothing to do with the cutting of trees down there. I
>was bummed that so many were chopped and now it will turn to mud. I think
>more highly of you if you had nothng to do with that.
>
>You are right Chris. It is a messy job. It is on the crack at pole 28
>too. I have intended to clean them both up but havn't had the same zest
>as the first time round on them. Maybe it has worked removing the bolts
>from the pole 28 crack as you have now come round and agree it is better
>as a trad route. (I'm not sure why your gear came out because I fell off
>all over the thing going ground up each time and all the gear held. Maybe
>I have more modern cams.)
>
>I think the removal of the bolts on the line at Elphinstone has been a
>fail. I don't think I will remove them again now I have had a day to think
>about it. Dr Julian Saunders claims if I remove them he will just replace
>them. If this were to become the case I think only the rock climb suffers.
>I will just clean up the ones I have already removed properly and climb
>the route on gear pretending the bolts are not there. This is a lesser
>experience on the climb but will have less impact in the long run.
>
>The real shame will be if this route sets the standard for generations
>to come. I just think this is a backwards step in the way you should approach
>new routing in general. I don't think it is about making things accessible
>for the crowds but accepting the challenge presented. For me the challenge
>presented was obvious you could climb it with out the need for defacing
>the rock in any way.
Nooooo - maintain the rage! |
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