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Chipping caught on film in the Gunks

11:02:17 AM

11:37:22 AM
Blerrie heck, that bugger seemed more organised than whoever has been doing The Horn flakes recently. Where is the USA equivalent of DCA (Dangerouser Cliffs Australia), when they are needed?
... ~> and like many of the comments posted to the linked sites noted, why didn't the filmers raise the issue with the individual directly at the time?

11:43:59 AM
From the backstory link:
The local climbers presented the video to DPM with the request that they remain anonymous. "We don't want this to come off as a personal attack," they said. "We've tried speaking with the person and it obviously hasn't had an effect. Our intent isn't malicious, we just want this to stop happening to our boulders."

11:48:58 AM
I read that, but also think that if the individual was told they were just filmed, and the world will know about it unless they stop, then it may have had an effect?

Sadly it is like murder. Even if the offender does time, it won't bring the victim back.

11:49:08 AM
Looks like he'll be up for a bit of a social media lynching after this gets around!
12:43:13 PM
It would be pretty hard to justify that as "cleaning"; especially when he's wailing on the rock with a hammer and has a whole set of masonry tools.

I don't think whomever filmed this should be chastised for not stopping him. If you're going to step into a situation like that you have to be prepared to physically stop them because emotions are likely to run high and it could easily escalate to that point (didn't the Aussies already demonstrate the effectiveness of assault by rock hammer?). They aren't the sheriff and they also indicated that they have already raised the issue with him directly to no avail. So, since its really a community issue they filmed him and threw it out there to the community. If the community frowns in significant numbers it will lead to a change in behavior one way or another and will serve as an example to others. If the community doesn't frown then we will have new acceptable practices for FAs and he'll been hailed as a visionary; doubtful to play out this way though.

12:59:58 PM


Sadly it seems this is a V10ish climber whose ego is ruling his decisions - obviously strong, but not strong enough for what he wants to climb / be known for.
1:12:22 PM
It’s funny how we’re happy to drive on roads that have obliterated the native landscape through which they’re made (and how we whinge when they’re bad and wish they’d be fixed), trudge along well worn walking tracks (that have often been highly manufactured to ease our passage) to get to the cliffs, plonk our packs on ground levelled by numerous trackcare workdays, whack in bolts to aid (pun intended) our way to the top (“there’s no way this could be climbed on natural gear!”), smear the ‘sacred’ rock with unsightly white stains (“it’s okay, it’ll wash off in the rain...”), wire brush living vegetation from where it’s been for eons, yet the thought of chipping a hold is somehow frowned upon?
Don’t get me wrong, personally I’m all against chipping, but if it’s okay to whack in a bolt in order to do a route, what’s the fundamental difference? Look at the bolt ladder on the 7th pillar. Is that really climbing? Wouldn’t it be more fun if there was a line of nice pockets up that bit of rock? Imagine that – a grade 15 jug haul up the guts of taipan? Why should only the elite (and I deliberately don’t include aid climbers) get to climb up that bit of rock? If it doesn’t infringe an existing route, what’s the problem?
And what about gluing flakes on? Sort of like anti-chipping. Shouldn’t we, as ethical puritans, decree that if climbs fall apart it’s the way it was meant to be? Does it matter if a route is suddenly no longer climbable? Or would that be too compromising for a certain scenic east coast destination...
I’m not advocating or denouncing anything, just pointing out how hypocritical our chosen pastime is...
11:22:16 AM
On 21/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Sadly it is like murder. Even if the offender does time, it won't bring the victim back.

Kinda inappropriate analogy there, M9. It's bad, but it's not taking a life. Let's keep some perspective.

11:46:19 AM
On 22/02/2013 Will_P wrote:
>Kinda inappropriate analogy there, M9. It's bad, but it's not taking a life. Let's keep some perspective.

No offence meant towards any murdered, as that is not what I meant.

E. Wells
6:44:39 PM
Someone told me that two thirds of the earths crust is Granite, and that Russian scientists in the 60's proved that if you even say derogatory things to it, or any other rock for that matter (e.g you stuffin pie faced rock, good for nuthin rock) it actually alters its electric field in a way not dissimilar to a flower being stabbed with a hot needle. Can someone qaulified please confirm this. No jokers PLEASE! ( Im sick of being mocked by you know it all smart Alex's, its just negative vibes) Do you think Ivan Greene is getting any negative vibes right now in the eternal vibe stream of life? Poor chap.

There are 11 messages in this topic.


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