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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
Author
How do you grade this?

davidn
20/05/2012
8:16:21 AM
Okay, after my last little flame baiting session I decided I'd ignore you nerds for a while, but now I actually need some advice.

I have a few routes at a new area I've been visiting that I think are actually going to be worthwhile, amongst many boulder problems. I have no experience with putting up routes in terms of grades, and I don't really get on a rope very often despite many suggestions to do otherwise.

I'm looking at an 8 metre 'route'. It's close to highball territory but frankly neither my ankles nor my wife will thank me for doing it that way. The route goes as a V7 boulder problem off the deck through a steeply overhung dyno from bad holds to a sloper rail. From there, the rock turns slabby and more like V0-V2 granite crimps, pinches and pockets (yes, pockets on granite, one of the odd and interesting features of the area).

A variant could be done through a V3-V4 traverse into the sloper rail then up through the same territory.

I'm a softc--k, but in reality it's no Lindfield Rocks, I'm not Bryden Allen and I'll ignore any of the usual suspects calling me out; I just want some grade suggestions (mikl? neil?).

Cheers
David

benjenga
20/05/2012
9:18:41 AM
On 20/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>Okay, after my last little flame baiting session I decided I'd ignore you
>nerds for a while, but now I actually need some advice.
>
>I have a few routes at a new area I've been visiting that I think are
>actually going to be worthwhile, amongst many boulder problems. I have
>no experience with putting up routes in terms of grades, and I don't really
>get on a rope very often despite many suggestions to do otherwise.
>
>I'm looking at an 8 metre 'route'. It's close to highball territory but
>frankly neither my ankles nor my wife will thank me for doing it that way.
> The route goes as a V7 boulder problem off the deck through a steeply
>overhung dyno from bad holds to a sloper rail. From there, the rock turns
>slabby and more like V0-V2 granite crimps, pinches and pockets (yes, pockets
>on granite, one of the odd and interesting features of the area).
>
>A variant could be done through a V3-V4 traverse into the sloper rail
>then up through the same territory.
>
>I'm a softc--k, but in reality it's no Lindfield Rocks, I'm not Bryden
>Allen and I'll ignore any of the usual suspects calling me out; I just
>want some grade suggestions (mikl? neil?).
>
>Cheers
>David


Well if you think its V7 boulder then judging by how short it is perhaps 27/28. Sounds like it will need some repeats to suss the ewbank grade.

ajfclark
20/05/2012
9:40:59 AM
On 20/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>I just want some grade suggestions (mikl? neil?).

Can you say 23 and not laugh?

davidn
20/05/2012
10:45:58 AM
On 20/05/2012 ajfclark wrote:
>On 20/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>>I just want some grade suggestions (mikl? neil?).
>
>Can you say 23 and not laugh?

Heck, given how much I'm on a rope... I actually did consider just grading everything 14.

Ben: thanks. I could possibly be argued down to V6 by a repeater, but wouldn't agree with anything lower. Guess that's 26/27 if, as I presume you were suggesting, you go by the hardest move? (though last time I suggested anything like that, there was a long shitfight with D&D references and robes and wizard hats galore). Question for me is, if the other moves are so much easier, does that drag it down to 25? 24? Magic number 23?

shortman
20/05/2012
11:06:15 AM
On 20/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>On 20/05/2012 ajfclark wrote:
>>On 20/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>>>I just want some grade suggestions (mikl? neil?).
>>
>>Can you say 23 and not laugh?
>
>Heck, given how much I'm on a rope... I actually did consider just grading
>everything 14.
>
>Ben: thanks. I could possibly be argued down to V6 by a repeater, but
>wouldn't agree with anything lower. Guess that's 26/27 if, as I presume
>you were suggesting, you go by the hardest move? (though last time I suggested
>anything like that, there was a long shitfight with D&D references and
>robes and wizard hats galore). Question for me is, if the other moves
>are so much easier, does that drag it down to 25? 24? Magic number 23?



8m - sounds like a V7 boulder problem. How much gear did it take?
baz74
20/05/2012
11:32:10 AM
Just leave it as V7 and state the first ascent was top-roped. Leave it as bold undertaking for a highball problem for those that follow you. If the area is a new bouldering area don't ruin it by bolting micro-routes.

Also I love a hard boulder problem with a bold top out but I hate a short route with a desperate start and a very easy finish.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/05/2012
11:49:27 AM
On 20/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>Okay, after my last little flame baiting session I decided I'd ignore you
>nerds for a while, but now I actually need some advice.
>
>I have a few routes at a new area I've been visiting that I think are
>actually going to be worthwhile, amongst many boulder problems. I have
>no experience with putting up routes in terms of grades, and I don't really
>get on a rope very often despite many suggestions to do otherwise.
>
>I'm looking at an 8 metre 'route'. It's close to highball territory but
>frankly neither my ankles nor my wife will thank me for doing it that way.
> The route goes as a V7 boulder problem off the deck through a steeply
>overhung dyno from bad holds to a sloper rail. From there, the rock turns
>slabby and more like V0-V2 granite crimps, pinches and pockets (yes, pockets
>on granite, one of the odd and interesting features of the area).
>
>A variant could be done through a V3-V4 traverse into the sloper rail
>then up through the same territory.
>
>I'm a softc--k, but in reality it's no Lindfield Rocks, I'm not Bryden
>Allen and I'll ignore any of the usual suspects calling me out; I just
>want some grade suggestions (mikl? neil?).
>
>Cheers
>David

Have you done the route yet?
If so and on rope, did you lead it or toprope it?

Without further clarification, given the ambiguity (for me), within your post, it is difficult to give a fair dinkum reply, as it seems you already have grade-numbers in mind.

I'd also suggest that (refer back to original concept of Ewbank Grading System), no-one can give a legitimate grade for you over the internet without actually doing it and experiencing all the variables involved, as any internet answer will be a conversion at best from the numbers you indicate.

In fact I'd go further and suggest given your acknowledged lack of leading experience, that even toproping it to death would still be a vague number! ... unless you also toproped quite a few other climbs of similar difficulty that already have a concensus grading, which by the way is a grade given for leading them.





>I could possibly be argued down to V6 by a repeater, but wouldn't agree with anything lower. Guess that's 26/27 if, as I presume you were suggesting, you go by the hardest move? (though last time I suggested anything like that, there was a long shitfight with D&D references and robes and wizard hats galore). Question for me is, if the other moves are so much easier, does that drag it down to 25? 24? Magic number 23?

Yes.
You didn't learn last time?
Btw; I am still not entirely convinced that you are not trolling us ;-)


On 20/05/2012 baz74 wrote:
>Just leave it as V7 and state the first ascent was top-roped. Leave it
>as bold undertaking for a highball problem for those that follow you.
>If the area is a new bouldering area don't ruin it by bolting micro-routes.
>
>Also I love a hard boulder problem with a bold top out but I hate a short
>route with a desperate start and a very easy finish.

This is an excellent suggestion and attitude, because it leaves room for adventure instead of lowering the climb to the 'must be safe for the masses (modern) mentality'.

Sonic
20/05/2012
1:23:13 PM
Basically you want us to grade something we've never seen and never climbed with pretty vague beta. It is like me writing a review of a restaurant I haven't seen a menu for and I've never been too! Are you really this silly?

davidn
20/05/2012
2:02:52 PM
On 20/05/2012 Sonic wrote:
>Basically you want us to grade something we've never seen and never climbed
>with pretty vague beta. It is like me writing a review of a restaurant
>I haven't seen a menu for and I've never been too! Are you really this
>silly?

No - it's nothing like that. A restaurant review is a qualitative matter. A comparison would be asking you if you think my described route is a 'good route'. I'm not.

I'm talking about giving a theoretical idea of the difficulty of a route given you know the height of the route (8 metres), type of rock (granite) and technical difficulty of all the moves (V7 three-points-off dyno to a bunch of V0 to V2 moves). Route takes fiddly small gear, but go ahead and give me your views on how bolts would change the grade. Exposure - minimal. I believe that covers off all the Ewbank bases?

If you don't have any guesses or suggestions, that's fine, no need to respond. I'm not expecting anything definitive, but I'm hoping for input from people who have or routinely do put up new routes (having an experience of bouldering grades is obviously a BIG plus). Thanks to ben, baz74 and ajf for your constructive responses! 23 is starting to sound like an attractive number.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/05/2012
7:03:08 PM
On 20/05/2012 davidn wrote:
>On 20/05/2012 Sonic wrote:
>>Basically you want us to grade something we've never seen and never climbed
>>with pretty vague beta. It is like me writing a review of a restaurant
>>I haven't seen a menu for and I've never been too! Are you really this
>>silly?
>
>No - it's nothing like that. A restaurant review is a qualitative matter.
> A comparison would be asking you if you think my described route is a
>'good route'. I'm not.
>
>I'm talking about giving a theoretical idea of the difficulty of a route
>given you know the height of the route (8 metres), type of rock (granite)
>and technical difficulty of all the moves (V7 three-points-off dyno to
>a bunch of V0 to V2 moves). Route takes fiddly small gear, but go ahead
>and give me your views on how bolts would change the grade. Exposure -
>minimal. I believe that covers off all the Ewbank bases?
>
>If you don't have any guesses or suggestions, that's fine, no need to
>respond. I'm not expecting anything definitive, but I'm hoping for input
>from people who have or routinely do put up new routes (having an experience
>of bouldering grades is obviously a BIG plus). Thanks to ben, baz74 and
>ajf for your constructive responses! 23 is starting to sound like an attractive
>number.

Truth hurts huh?
~> I am starting to think that I should join the ODH school of learning-
☻!

Duang Daunk
20/05/2012
7:51:51 PM
Bugger orf M9, what would you know about bouldering?
Bein a bomber boulderer meself I reckon its V4 max. Argue till the cows come home daveN but you just need to face the fact that ya need 2 harden up, stop being a princess, do it, then publish a grade. Time and repeat concensus will let you know if you were rite or wanking with a typeriter.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/05/2012
8:26:33 PM
On 20/05/2012 Duang Daunk wrote:
>Bugger orf M9, what would you know about bouldering?

Bugger all by comparison to davidn apparently...

>Bein a bomber boulderer meself I reckon its V4 max. Argue till the cows
>come home daveN but you just need to face the fact that ya need 2 harden
>up, stop being a princess, do it, then publish a grade. Time and repeat
>concensus will let you know if you were rite or wanking with a typeriter.

I will take your word for it until davidn proves you wrong!
Heh, heh, heh.
One Day Hero
20/05/2012
9:02:36 PM
Buuuuullshiiiiiit!
One Day Hero
20/05/2012
9:06:42 PM
On 20/05/2012 davidn wrote:

>I'm looking at an 8 metre 'route'. It's close to highball territory but
>frankly neither my ankles nor my wife will thank me for doing it that way.
> The route goes as a V7 boulder problem off the deck through a steeply
>overhung dyno from bad holds to a sloper rail. From there, the rock turns
>slabby and more like V0-V2 granite crimps, pinches and pockets (yes, pockets
>on granite, one of the odd and interesting features of the area).

I cannot fuching wait to go out to this place with a camera and a tape measure!

stugang
20/05/2012
9:48:32 PM
I haven't been this convinced that someone is a troll since cjradoliff started asking about tension on tyros. I got that one wrong, so surely I'll be right on this one....

Maybe the sport climbing Nowra/Blue Mtns team can come over to you and grid bolt your little granite egg. And they could all grade it, yes all of them could grade it, and you could go to the pub and talk about how you could grade it. Wow what a fking time could be had.

Pity I'm busy that weekend.
One Day Hero
20/05/2012
10:04:42 PM
I hope davidn hasn't vacated his username again. That'd suck, because it'd mean that Bomber had got me twice with the same trick!

stugang
20/05/2012
10:06:44 PM
seriously that was someone else that got you the first time. I just pointed it out to you.

wallwombat
20/05/2012
10:55:21 PM
The thing about grades is, that if you worry about it too much, you turn into a giant knob.


I'm not a very good climber but I have been doing it for a while and I would like to think that I am pretty competent at most aspects of the game.

I have no bloody idea about grading.

Every time I have put up a new route, I have graded it either 18- or 18+. With boulder problems, it's V2- or V2+.,

In my head, I don't climb harder than that, even when i do.

Unhinch your carckle and just go climbing.

It's not about ownership, It's about having fun,


,,,,,,,and it's probably V2-..


cruze
21/05/2012
6:55:26 AM
It's a grade 20/21 granite face climb with a "bouldery start".

nmonteith
21/05/2012
10:13:12 AM
On 21/05/2012 cruze wrote:
>It's a grade 20/21 granite face climb with a "bouldery start".

Bam. Spot on. If you want to call it a route - then build a large tottering rock cairn to eliminate the stupid start. I certainly would.

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 49
There are 49 messages in this topic.

 

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