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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
How do you grade this? 20-May-2012 At 8:16:21 AM davidn
Okay, after my last little flame baiting session I decided I'd ignore you nerds for a while, but now I actually need some advice.

I have a few routes at a new area I've been visiting that I think are actually going to be worthwhile, amongst many boulder problems. I have no experience with putting up routes in terms of grades, and I don't really get on a rope very often despite many suggestions to do otherwise.

I'm looking at an 8 metre 'route'. It's close to highball territory but frankly neither my ankles nor my wife will thank me for doing it that way. The route goes as a V7 boulder problem off the deck through a steeply overhung dyno from bad holds to a sloper rail. From there, the rock turns slabby and more like V0-V2 granite crimps, pinches and pockets (yes, pockets on granite, one of the odd and interesting features of the area).

A variant could be done through a V3-V4 traverse into the sloper rail then up through the same territory.

I'm a softc--k, but in reality it's no Lindfield Rocks, I'm not Bryden Allen and I'll ignore any of the usual suspects calling me out; I just want some grade suggestions (mikl? neil?).


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