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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Failed Sport Route? 28-Feb-2012 At 10:16:17 AM cruze
At Araps at that grade (20) I think that a route should be graded for an onsight lead ground up. So, if the gear is particularly awkward or impossible to place for a short person then the grade should be higher as envisaged by the Ewbank system. If it is extremely specific then that should be written in the description, again as envisaged by the Ewbank system.

Unfortunately over time descriptions tend to be dumbed down, changed or deleted. So you get left with a poxy little route that noone climbs. That would be a shame if you believe the route is worthwhile. Arapiles has a long history of fixed gear being placed (and left) next to (IMHO) good but sometimes fiddly passive gear placements (let alone cams) (eg Muldoon, Hot Flap, Mantle, Euridyce, Blockbuster, Voodoo, just to name a few classic easy-moderates that spring to mind). It simply isn't a pure trad climbing mecca that some people try to maintain.

In my opinion it would be a better addition to the crag to add fixed gear to the line rather than create an esoteric mixed route.

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