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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 23
Author
Dry Tooling on 100' Slab - Narrowneck
michaelc54
17/02/2012
2:07:57 PM
I did this route recently with a friend

It looked very much as if someone had climbed (dry tooled) the route with crampons on, leaving the tell tale signs of a couple of parallel scratches on each of the holds on the slab

Is this appropriate?

nmonteith
17/02/2012
2:10:22 PM
No! Certainly not appropriate! Bluies sandstone is very soft - crampons and picks would tear off good holds easily.

There is PLENTY of choss in the Bluies which isn't a described route (let along a Bluies classic!) - go and do your dry tooling on that instead.

A quarry is actually probably a better idea.
maxdacat
17/02/2012
2:12:59 PM
Unlikely since it seems to be more of a UK thing, however I could be swayed by photographic evidence.

nmonteith
17/02/2012
2:34:53 PM
I've seen people drytooling on routes in Australia - one moron drytooled up the 3* classic Boogie Til You Puke at Camels Hump. The same guy then went to the old Burnely glue-up with his axes and proceeded to remove several vital holds that had to be re-affixed by others.

aarond
17/02/2012
4:26:15 PM
why wouldn't they go somewhere nicer. i couldn't imagine 100ft slab being any good for drytooling anyway.

something on Wave Wall could be a bit nicer.

kuu
Online Now
17/02/2012
4:32:39 PM
On 17/02/2012 nmonteith wrote:
> snip
>A quarry is actually probably a better idea.

Yeh, preferably one that's still actively in use!

Miguel75
17/02/2012
4:39:10 PM
On 17/02/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>....one moron drytooled up the 3* classic Boogie Til You Puke at Camels Hump....

WHAT? Freak nasty, some people are sausages! There's plenty of choss around out west to dry tool on.
widewetandslippery
17/02/2012
5:26:48 PM
This makes my penis sore

Eduardo Slabofvic
19/02/2012
12:41:55 PM
"Dry tooling Narrowneck"? It sounds like something Stugang would do home alone on a Friday night

benjenga
25/03/2012
7:27:23 PM
So I have been told of a couple of ring bolts that have appeared on the ledge before the rap in for 100ft slab and a couple if rings that have been added to the lower first pitch, the corner.
Can anyone explain these bolts??
I am going to inspect them next weekend but I can't understand there existents?
Anyone have any answers?

shortman
25/03/2012
8:27:39 PM
On 25/03/2012 benjenga wrote:
>So I have been told of a couple of ring bolts that have appeared on the
>ledge before the rap in for 100ft slab and a couple if rings that have
>been added to the lower first pitch, the corner.
>Can anyone explain these bolts??
>I am going to inspect them next weekend but I can't understand there existents?
>Anyone have any answers?

My money would be on the crampon guy.

benjenga
25/03/2012
8:44:21 PM
On 25/03/2012 shortman wrote:
>
>My money would be on the crampon guy.

Nah he would have drilled larger holes so he could place ice screws.
One Day Hero
25/03/2012
9:43:35 PM
On 25/03/2012 benjenga wrote:
>Can anyone explain these bolts??

>Anyone have any answers?

I have a suggestion, maybe this is an early manifestation of 3rd generation pussyness? Let me explain;

It's my understanding that the climbers of the 60's and 70's were hard as nails and heaped shit on pussies. The pussies were sub-men, and had no right to develop any routes, or bone any of the chicks, or talk back.

By the 80's, a lot of these hardmen were still doing scary stuff, but also putting up difficult routes which were quite pussy. They continued to keep the pussies in their place though. Meanwhile, a bunch of young climbers learned to climb on hardman routes, but......

By the 90's, the leading climbers (who had learned to climb on scary routes) then started putting up routes of their own, whilst often transferring the pussy ethic of difficult routes down to moderate routes.........I really see this crew (Widewetandslippery and his mates) as first generation pussies, but at least they had respect for the notion of not being a pussy. Meanwhile, a bunch of young climbers learned to climb only on bolts.

By the 00's, the leading climbers had barely placed natural gear at all. Their mentors and idols were pussies, and the notion of not being a pussy was becoming quite foreign. Old, classic routes were totally forgotten unless they were fairly pussy. 2nd gen pussies had arrived. Meanwhile a bunch of young climbers learned how to climb without ever being presented with the concept of climbing as a hardman activity.

Now, these 3rd gen pussies have started buying drills. When they look around to try and see how to put their Ozito to use, all they see is 2nd gen pussies drilling the shit out of every bit of rock in sight. If there's an old, forgotten route which barely gets any ascents, and has something called 'natural gear'?? involved, surely no one will mind if it gets modernised?

The funny thing is, when you find this bloke and tell him he's a pussy, he probably won't even understand what you're talking about
rightarmbad
26/03/2012
12:32:59 AM
Gold!

Sonic
26/03/2012
9:33:25 AM
That is brilliant ODH!

Shades of Team America, eh? So are you gonna be the dick that comes along and fuchs all these pussies?
widewetandslippery
26/03/2012
9:50:06 AM
No way ODH is doing anything to my pussy, even if its the neighbours..

I think he is spot on.

One Day Hero
26/03/2012
11:15:21 AM
On 26/03/2012 Sonic wrote:
>So are you gonna be the dick that comes along
>and fuchs all these pussies?

Nah, I'm too moderate.......really, I'm a first gen pussy myself (chronologically 2nd gen, but there was a bit of a lag in the A.C.T., Victoria, Qld, Tas, owing to some highly vigilant hardmen who kept the pussies at bay for another ten years).

I actually like climbing (good) sport routes, which rules me out as a fanatic. The pussies who are pulling climbing towards pussydom don't ever climb on gear (or granite). To counter the drift in any meaningful way, you need a bunch of vocal psychos who never clip bolts and are prepared to dish out abuse for decades on end. People like Gerry and Bob down in Tassie really did delay the pussification of climbing down there by 10-15 years.
Dave J
26/03/2012
1:07:19 PM
There was a doco at the Melbourne Film Festival a couple of years back called "Too much pussy". I didn't see it at the time, but I'm wondering now if it was, in fact, a doco about the last 2 decades of Australian climbing.

On 25/03/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>I have a suggestion, maybe this is an early manifestation of 3rd generation
>pussyness? Let me explain;
>
>It's my understanding that the climbers of the 60's and 70's were hard
>as nails and heaped shit on pussies. The pussies were sub-men, and had
>no right to develop any routes, or bone any of the chicks, or talk back.
>
>By the 80's, a lot of these hardmen were still doing scary stuff, but
>also putting up difficult routes which were quite pussy. They continued
>to keep the pussies in their place though. Meanwhile, a bunch of young
>climbers learned to climb on hardman routes, but......
>
>By the 90's, the leading climbers (who had learned to climb on scary routes)
>then started putting up routes of their own, whilst often transferring
>the pussy ethic of difficult routes down to moderate routes.........I really
>see this crew (Widewetandslippery and his mates) as first generation pussies,
>but at least they had respect for the notion of not being a pussy. Meanwhile,
>a bunch of young climbers learned to climb only on bolts.
>
>By the 00's, the leading climbers had barely placed natural gear at all.
>Their mentors and idols were pussies, and the notion of not being a pussy
>was becoming quite foreign. Old, classic routes were totally forgotten
>unless they were fairly pussy. 2nd gen pussies had arrived. Meanwhile a
>bunch of young climbers learned how to climb without ever being presented
>with the concept of climbing as a hardman activity.
>
>Now, these 3rd gen pussies have started buying drills. When they look
>around to try and see how to put their Ozito to use, all they see is 2nd
>gen pussies drilling the shit out of every bit of rock in sight. If there's
>an old, forgotten route which barely gets any ascents, and has something
>called 'natural gear'?? involved, surely no one will mind if it gets modernised?
>
>The funny thing is, when you find this bloke and tell him he's a pussy,
>he probably won't even understand what you're talking about

rodw
26/03/2012
1:17:57 PM
Id say I'm a 2nd gen pussy from a 1st gen pussy era...I was just ahead of the times...a trail blazer no less :)

Though in all seriousness, I just never understood the need for people to leave their mark on established routes in NSW...there is so much rock about that its easy to leave your mark on obscure crags no one cares about now or in the future. I've seen many a failed sport or failed trad route (depending on what side of the grey beard your looking from)..that I would have bolted differently...but that doesn't really mean I actually had the inclination to do it.



One Day Hero
26/03/2012
10:29:55 PM
On 26/03/2012 Dave J wrote:
>There was a doco at the Melbourne Film Festival a couple of years back
>called "Too much pussy". I didn't see it at the time, but I'm wondering
>now if it was, in fact, a doco about the last 2 decades of Australian climbing.
>
Probably either that, or the decline of small marsupials.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 23
There are 23 messages in this topic.

 

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