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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

abseil stopper knots
1:41:34 PM
I keep finding the standard overhand knot comes undone as I rap down, have other people found this?
I've started using a double or triple (shot below, I always get nervous on the new mirrorball rap) overhand/barrel knot.

Sometimes I tie both ropes together, when it's a clean toss down a steep wall. If it's a slabby blocky abseil I tie and toss them them seperately.

2:01:13 PM
On 8/12/2011 mikllaw wrote:
>Sometimes I tie both ropes together
Do you ever find that this twists the ropes together on descent?

2:18:32 PM
only when people on the ground don't like me.

3:05:10 PM
I started going for full overkill with a figure 8 on a bight, it's less likely to magically pull through the device, and if you do reach the end of the rope you can clip in or stand in the loops. Also when you're pulling the rope and rethreading you can clip it to your harness, in case you're feeling particularly rope-droppingly retarded on the day.

3:23:49 PM
On 8/12/2011 cruze wrote:
>On 8/12/2011 mikllaw wrote:
>>Sometimes I tie both ropes together
>Do you ever find that this twists the ropes together on descent?

I agree, every time I've tied two rope ends together they totally twist up and are a nightmare to untangle on a hanging belay change.
undercling mike
3:23:57 PM
I've been using the stopper knot you've shown in the picture, it should be solid, I think it's just half of a double or tripple fishermans knot. An overhand seems a little insecure as you've found, might only be good for a false sense of security.
5:02:00 PM
Yes, I've found figure of eights come undone when they flap around, the double or triple stopper works for me.
Mostly I don't tie the ends together these days. Used to, but when it goes wrong it's a real mess.

9:40:29 PM
I don't tie knots in the end unless I expect to be abseiling close to the full rope length and I can't see the ends.

But if I do tie knots I tie a proper stopper knot like shown.
9:52:09 PM
If I'm using a stopper knot I use a figure-8 on the bight. It hasn't seemed to untie in my experience and is really simple and way bulky - also gives you a loop to try and hook if you forget to untie the knot before starting to pull the rope.
10:44:39 PM
I agree with K. Also a big knot seems to get snaged less than a little one
4:07:17 AM
I've always been sold on the half a double-fisherman, as shown in your pic. No point mucking around when it might be critical.

7:28:20 AM
tend to do figure 8 they dont seem to get snagged as often. i never tie the rope ends together

White Trash
9:34:22 PM
On 9/12/2011 bel wrote:
>tend to do figure 8 they dont seem to get snagged as often. i never tie the rope ends together

i have seen and also heard of figure 8 knots coming magicaly undone after being tossed over the edge, but interestingly not fig 8s on a bight.

There are 13 messages in this topic.


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