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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Mismatched belay

Big G
26/10/2011
2:11:30 PM
I'm quite a big bloke (110kg). I like climbing but have found most of the people i meet in the climbing world are a bit smaller than me. Do any of you have any good tips for securing a diminutive belayer in the event of a decent lead fall? Some locations are easy enough to sort out but what do you do if there are no obvious anchors like trees and large rocks?

ajfclark
26/10/2011
2:17:42 PM
Secure the belayer to a bag of rocks.

Sabu
26/10/2011
2:19:11 PM
Put in some gear at ground level that can withstand an upward direction for your belayer to clip in to. A well placed cam could do the job easy.

ajfclark
26/10/2011
2:35:57 PM
But he said there's no obvious anchors?
citationx
26/10/2011
2:57:45 PM
Unless you're like some people I've heard of, who randomly "slip" off holds (seriously, who does that?) resulting in falls, I find that giving a heads up to your belayer helps. Sure, you're still going to yank your belayer off the ground, but i found that if they're switched on and you've warned them, by taking in and "squatting" quickly when you fall, their downward motion somewhat offsets your "yanking them up" motion a bit such that they don't end up being pulled through the first draw.
The only time I yanked my diminuitive belayer's hand into the first quickdraw is when I fell from around a roof - that is, she didn't realise I'd fallen until it was too late. I'd never yanked her as high in all the other times when I warned her I may fall, and did. (Having said that, I don't think the weight difference would've been as big as what you're likely to have)

rodw
Online Now
26/10/2011
3:03:44 PM
On 26/10/2011 citationx wrote:
>Unless you're like some people I've heard of, who randomly "slip" off holds
>(seriously, who does that?) resulting in falls,

So you have never had a hold(s) break then?

..::- Chris -::..
26/10/2011
3:15:17 PM
I'm 83kg currently and I find that problem of my belay partner (usually the mrs) being way too lite despite me trying hard to fatten her up...; )

god help me if i was 110... apart from the obvious discomfort to the belayer i'd also be questioning whether those last 3 rp's i placed will hold 110kg + downforce....

I try to sling to something, even if it means grabbing an extra rope or using the other end and going back further until i could find something.

If the route has absolutely no gound protection and I have a belay'er less than 20kg and i'm nervous about the climb run out or whatever then I would perhaps pick a different route, or call someone of similar weight to belay me ;-)

My first attempt at kachoong i was probably 95+kg at the time with a skinny ass vegetarian hippy belaying me ; p I fell from over the lip, ripped the ground belay out and dragged my mate round the corner to (at the time) the piton.....

I've caused stitches when my belayer was dragged up but his legs got caught under a boulder on the way up.

I've landed on my belayer doing enter sandman at bunderleer when i had my entire arm around a stalic mite type rock looking for a bit of protection before the first bolt, hold snapped off clean and i only had one hand on the wall at the time so off i went... fell back landed on my belayer and we both went flying down the hill behind it tangled in rope....

Basically get a bigger belay partner for "those" type of routes.....

Big G
26/10/2011
3:52:00 PM
On 26/10/2011 rodw wrote:

>So you have never had a hold(s) break then?

funny, i seem to have a disproportionate amount of holds break and a few mates like to use me to clean up their new routes a bit!
kieranl
26/10/2011
4:38:38 PM
On 26/10/2011 Big G wrote:
>On 26/10/2011 rodw wrote:
>
>>So you have never had a hold(s) break then?
>
>funny, i seem to have a disproportionate amount of holds break and a few
>mates like to use me to clean up their new routes a bit!
>
Must be wasting a bit of energy then. Although people who do new routes tend to tread gently and try to leave fragile bits intact. I get a bit horrified watching the gay abandon with which some people yard on holds that I had handled gingerly.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/10/2011
5:04:57 PM
On 26/10/2011 kieranl wrote:
> people who do new routes tend to tread gently and try to leave fragile bits intact.
>I get a bit horrified watching the gay abandon with which some people yard on holds
>that I had handled gingerly.

+1.
As I frequently enjoy climbing choss, I can vouch that the same applies to that medium too; ... indeed includes most 'adventure routes', even those of good quality rock.

Climbing delicately over less than reliable rock is another of the 'learned' arts in many a climbers bag of tricks.

Maybe yarding on suss rock goes hand in hand with the mentality that because a route is bolted it is therefore obviously safe! ?

Back to original post topic; ... ~> other options for anchoring the belayer, are to improvise extra weight for them eg a backpack full of rocks? (noted similarity to ajf post!), maybe simulclimb a bit till a good belay can be set up?, have a dynamic belay where belayer can move away to allow for being jerked back?
Whatever you choose, safety should be a prime consideration for both of you.

widewetandslippery
26/10/2011
5:06:38 PM
Rodw is a master shin basher. The kerfud of th whack at least scares the snakes away. BigG start the day with a full breaklfast. Don,t let the partner eat during the day as it will only increase there metabolism. Have them knock off a dozen beers on the way home and drop them off at a chicken shop. Problem fixed in no time
citationx
26/10/2011
9:43:57 PM
On 26/10/2011 Big G wrote:
>On 26/10/2011 rodw wrote:
>
>>So you have never had a hold(s) break then?
>
>funny, i seem to have a disproportionate amount of holds break and a few
>mates like to use me to clean up their new routes a bit!
>

Actually, quite the opposite. My (almost) 90kg has broken off zero holds on dirty rotten pig and bunny buckets, while my climbing partners of between the 55-65kg mark have broken them off seconding me. I climb with light thoughts, perhaps that's why. Or maybe I'm quite conscious about weighting holds too much and climb "gingerly". whatever reason, no. Never slipped off a hold, never fallen as a result of breaking a hold (not saying that i've not, i'm sure i have - i must have, but never fallen as a result)
patto
26/10/2011
10:00:28 PM
On 26/10/2011 citationx wrote:
>On 26/10/2011 Big G wrote:
>>On 26/10/2011 rodw wrote:
>>
>>>So you have never had a hold(s) break then?
>>
>>funny, i seem to have a disproportionate amount of holds break and a
>few
>>mates like to use me to clean up their new routes a bit!
>>
>
>Actually, quite the opposite. My (almost) 90kg has broken off zero holds
>on dirty rotten pig and bunny buckets, while my climbing partners of between
>the 55-65kg mark have broken them off seconding me. I climb with light
>thoughts, perhaps that's why. Or maybe I'm quite conscious about weighting
>holds too much and climb "gingerly". whatever reason, no. Never slipped
>off a hold, never fallen as a result of breaking a hold (not saying that
>i've not, i'm sure i have - i must have, but never fallen as a result)

When I climbed Dirty Rotten Pigs felt like a 17 not a 19. I figured maybe they just added a few grades because of the dodgy rock. I can't remember breaking any holds by I did feel I needed to test them all!
Dr Nick
26/10/2011
10:31:00 PM
On 26/10/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:

>Rodw is a master shin basher.

I've got a photo somewhere of a piece of rock wearing a toupee made out of Rod's shin hair. What a nice soul he is, donating hair to an insecure balding hold like that!

vwills
27/10/2011
8:58:58 AM
Just as well hes got more hair on his shins than on his head.

rodw
Online Now
27/10/2011
9:02:50 AM
On 26/10/2011 Dr Nick wrote:
>I've got a photo somewhere of a piece of rock wearing a toupee made out
>of Rod's shin hair. What a nice soul he is, donating hair to an insecure
>balding hold like that!

I've got matching scars on the other leg now Nick from a few weeks ago...don't like my legs to get jealous of each other.

Big G
27/10/2011
11:19:42 AM
thanks for the advice. my preference is to fatten my belayers up a bit but i fear some resistance! i'm also working on my 'light' thoughts.

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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