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General Climbing Discussion

Author

Pinch Grip

Rupert

21-May-2004
4:25:24 PM

Anybody got any good tips/techniques for increasing pinch grip strength? My crimp is 'ok' but my pinch power is sadly lacking.

Camos

21-May-2004
5:14:57 PM

I could point out the obvious but.....

Perhaps squeezing a squash ball would help? Also helps buld up forearms stamina

dalai

21-May-2004
10:48:15 PM

Rupert,

try open handing holds rather than crimping and pinch the underside of the holds with your thumbs, which you can usually do with plastic holds whilst training.

The best training for climbing is climbing. The best way to improve pinch grip strength...

Squash balls and other squeezing training tools might give you a pump, but aren't effective climbing training tools. They rely on isotonic muscle contractions (where the muscle shortens) where as hands in climbing utilize isometric contractions (where no shortening of the muscle occurs).

Cheers Martin

adski

21-May-2004
11:22:00 PM

I reckon you're onto something there Martin..

Rupert, perhaps you're pensive prior to pink-pointing pinches due to a perceived power problem. Stick to slapping slopers and you're sure to succeed soon.

tmarsh

22-May-2004
8:46:25 AM

On 21/05/2004 dalai wrote:
...
>but aren't effective climbing training tools. They rely on isotonic muscle
>contractions (where the muscle shortens) where as hands in climbing utilize
>isometric contractions (where no shortening of the muscle occurs).

Are you sure you mean isotonic? Isn't that were the ionic concentration in a fluid is the same as
the ionic concentration in our cells? ie not hypertonic or hypotonic. I'm sure there is a word for the
thing you're describing, but I can't think of it right now.

I don't think beer is an isotonic solution, which may explain why my brain is doing isometric
contractions right now.

tim

gfdonc

22-May-2004
9:35:33 PM

Ah Mr adski .. the first time ever I get to utter the letters ... ROTFL!

Robb

23-May-2004
6:01:57 PM

what can i say? mmmm.
a hangboard is awesome for developing good finger strength. most hangboards have pinch grips.
also the key to a strong pinch grip is a strong thumb. most climbers dont use their thumbs enough and therefore dont develop their thumb muscles enough.
hint. use your thumb whenever possible. look for the thumb catch, inobvious pinches and not forgetting the most useful of all. the five finger crimp. all five fingers and a ton of skin gripping the rock with maximum intensity.
yours with all 5 fingers.
hope this is useful.

M

23-May-2004
8:43:39 PM

On 22/05/2004 tmarsh wrote:
ening of the muscle occurs).
>
>Are you sure you mean isotonic? Isn't that were the ionic concentration
>in a fluid is the same as
>the ionic concentration in our cells?

Both are actually correct. I think the word it is derived from the greek or latin for equal

dalai

23-May-2004
9:28:29 PM

On 22/05/2004 tmarsh wrote:
>Are you sure you mean isotonic?

Before posting, I checked the terms from a sports physiology publication to confirm. "An isotonic contraction is one where the muscle shortens during contraction" I could have also used concentric contraction in place of isotonic.

earwig

24-May-2004
1:35:45 PM

On 21/05/2004 dalai wrote:
>
hands in climbing utilize
>isometric contractions (where no shortening of the muscle occurs).

Can you do isometric exercises then? Also, I remember once being told or reading somewhere that there aren't any muscles in the fingers, only tendons. Do i have finger muscles? What would a muscley finger look like?

dalai

24-May-2004
1:49:00 PM

Open hand hangs off various size edges is a good example of specific isometric training outside of actually climbing.

AC

24-May-2004
2:53:57 PM

This link is petty impressive,see what you think.
http://www.dragondoor.com/cgi-bin/articles.pl?rm=mode3&articleid=137

tmarsh

24-May-2004
9:50:02 PM

On 23/05/2004 dalai wrote:
>On 22/05/2004 tmarsh wrote:
>>Are you sure you mean isotonic?
>
>Before posting, I checked the terms from a sports physiology publication
>to confirm. "An isotonic contraction is one where the muscle shortens during
>contraction" I could have also used concentric contraction in place of
>isotonic.

No worries. I am more familiar with the term concentric used in this context, hence the query. I
was also shockingly hungover, as my other comments may have indicated.

tim

adski

25-May-2004
1:49:37 AM

On 24/05/2004 AC wrote:
>This link is petty impressive,see what you think.
>http://www.dragondoor.com/cgi-bin/articles.pl?rm=mode3&articleid=137

Is that last photo a front lever? Impressive stuff. Tricks like this make training fun!

Hardware

25-May-2004
5:29:55 PM

Im very impressed! I didn't know Tide washing powder came in a 10lt form.

Rupert

4-Jun-2004
2:34:28 PM

Thanks for all the replies. Perhaps picking up a 10litre washing powder box will help ;). I have been doing some training specifically to target this (based on some of your feedback) over the last fortnight and am already feeling a little 'stronger' in this regard. I'm starting to really see the logic in training your weaknesses to get gains in the areas in which you are already strong. Good stuff!

There are 16 messages in this topic.