Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Wild Country: Set of 7 X WC Rockcentrics. (Sizes 3 to 9) Anodized different colours! SUPER SPECIAL!  $119.00
21% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Pinch Grip

Rupert
21/05/2004
4:25:24 PM
Anybody got any good tips/techniques for increasing pinch grip strength? My crimp is 'ok' but my pinch power is sadly lacking.

Camos
21/05/2004
5:14:57 PM
I could point out the obvious but.....

Perhaps squeezing a squash ball would help? Also helps buld up forearms stamina


dalai
21/05/2004
10:48:15 PM
Rupert,

try open handing holds rather than crimping and pinch the underside of the holds with your thumbs, which you can usually do with plastic holds whilst training.

The best training for climbing is climbing. The best way to improve pinch grip strength...

Squash balls and other squeezing training tools might give you a pump, but aren't effective climbing training tools. They rely on isotonic muscle contractions (where the muscle shortens) where as hands in climbing utilize isometric contractions (where no shortening of the muscle occurs).

Cheers Martin


adski
21/05/2004
11:22:00 PM
I reckon you're onto something there Martin..

Rupert, perhaps you're pensive prior to pink-pointing pinches due to a perceived power problem. Stick to slapping slopers and you're sure to succeed soon.

tmarsh
22/05/2004
8:46:25 AM
On 21/05/2004 dalai wrote:
...
>but aren't effective climbing training tools. They rely on isotonic muscle
>contractions (where the muscle shortens) where as hands in climbing utilize
>isometric contractions (where no shortening of the muscle occurs).

Are you sure you mean isotonic? Isn't that were the ionic concentration in a fluid is the same as
the ionic concentration in our cells? ie not hypertonic or hypotonic. I'm sure there is a word for the
thing you're describing, but I can't think of it right now.

I don't think beer is an isotonic solution, which may explain why my brain is doing isometric
contractions right now.

tim
gfdonc
22/05/2004
9:35:33 PM
Ah Mr adski .. the first time ever I get to utter the letters ... ROTFL!

Robb
23/05/2004
6:01:57 PM
what can i say? mmmm.
a hangboard is awesome for developing good finger strength. most hangboards have pinch grips.
also the key to a strong pinch grip is a strong thumb. most climbers dont use their thumbs enough and therefore dont develop their thumb muscles enough.
hint. use your thumb whenever possible. look for the thumb catch, inobvious pinches and not forgetting the most useful of all. the five finger crimp. all five fingers and a ton of skin gripping the rock with maximum intensity.
yours with all 5 fingers.
hope this is useful.

M
23/05/2004
8:43:39 PM
On 22/05/2004 tmarsh wrote:
ening of the muscle occurs).
>
>Are you sure you mean isotonic? Isn't that were the ionic concentration
>in a fluid is the same as
>the ionic concentration in our cells?

Both are actually correct. I think the word it is derived from the greek or latin for equal
dalai
23/05/2004
9:28:29 PM
On 22/05/2004 tmarsh wrote:
>Are you sure you mean isotonic?

Before posting, I checked the terms from a sports physiology publication to confirm. "An isotonic contraction is one where the muscle shortens during contraction" I could have also used concentric contraction in place of isotonic.
earwig
24/05/2004
1:35:45 PM
On 21/05/2004 dalai wrote:
>
hands in climbing utilize
>isometric contractions (where no shortening of the muscle occurs).

Can you do isometric exercises then? Also, I remember once being told or reading somewhere that there aren't any muscles in the fingers, only tendons. Do i have finger muscles? What would a muscley finger look like?
dalai
24/05/2004
1:49:00 PM
Open hand hangs off various size edges is a good example of specific isometric training outside of actually climbing.
AC
24/05/2004
2:53:57 PM
This link is petty impressive,see what you think.
http://www.dragondoor.com/cgi-bin/articles.pl?rm=mode3&articleid=137

tmarsh
24/05/2004
9:50:02 PM
On 23/05/2004 dalai wrote:
>On 22/05/2004 tmarsh wrote:
>>Are you sure you mean isotonic?
>
>Before posting, I checked the terms from a sports physiology publication
>to confirm. "An isotonic contraction is one where the muscle shortens during
>contraction" I could have also used concentric contraction in place of
>isotonic.

No worries. I am more familiar with the term concentric used in this context, hence the query. I
was also shockingly hungover, as my other comments may have indicated.

tim

adski
25/05/2004
1:49:37 AM
On 24/05/2004 AC wrote:
>This link is petty impressive,see what you think.
>http://www.dragondoor.com/cgi-bin/articles.pl?rm=mode3&articleid=137

Is that last photo a front lever? Impressive stuff. Tricks like this make training fun!

Hardware
25/05/2004
5:29:55 PM
Im very impressed! I didn't know Tide washing powder came in a 10lt form.

Rupert
4/06/2004
2:34:28 PM
Thanks for all the replies. Perhaps picking up a 10litre washing powder box will help ;). I have been doing some training specifically to target this (based on some of your feedback) over the last fortnight and am already feeling a little 'stronger' in this regard. I'm starting to really see the logic in training your weaknesses to get gains in the areas in which you are already strong. Good stuff!

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints