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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolting in the Warrumbungles 5-Jun-2011 At 11:33:08 PM jrc
Message
The lower bolt on Cornerstone Rib was placed next to a severely corroded piton that appears to have been used wth some regularity for retreat. It was there the first time I did CR(1976). Whether you like it or not people for various reasons have backed off here. The piton is so corroded however that it is borderline whether it is safe to abseil from it.

Sadly, not everyone who goes to the Bungles is as skilled as you are and sometimes they get into trouble even on one of the easiest climbs there. And, in the stress of a retreat situation, especially if there is a storm or an injury to cope with, they may not be in a position to place the most reliable pieces of backup equipment. It seems leaving the decaying piton alone is a poor legacy to a party that has a true need of a more reliable anchor.

I recommend you return and replace the necessary bolts to make the liklihood of an accident negligible.

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