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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolting at Piddo 11-May-2011 At 7:04:01 PM Dr Nick
On 11/05/2011 TonyH wrote:
>Yep, Viparete is a solid lead at the grade, not one to fall off. Ditto
>Aunty Jack, even if it is a classic.

Now that's interesting. I first jumped on Viparete as my first 17, and there's still a faint mark from the rope getting caught between my arm and my chest on a big whipper from the crux. I think every piece below the crux was tenuous at best, and I seem to remember several falling out due to the cracks being just too damn shallow. I've done it since and found it nice, but effectively soloing to the crux.

On the other hand I've never noticed any sketchiness on Aunty Jack, and I'm sure I first did it when I was climbing 19-ish. There's good gear in the first little thrutch, then bolts (OK, manky carrots) up the wall aren't there?

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