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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolting at Piddo 11-May-2011 At 5:07:52 PM Dr Nick
Message
On 11/05/2011 superstu wrote:
>20 and under classic Blueys trad lines on excellent gear that I've done
>recently.

(Chops out a bunch of main Blueys climbs for brevity)

>TDM
>Cactus
>Knuckle
>Scimitar
>Cymbeline
>Sizzler
>Room To Move
>Zoroaster
>Mayday
>Interstate 31

These ones are all in the Wolgan (mainly Coke Ovens?). While it's similar rock, the extra hour or so from Sydney and the fact you have to walk *up* the hill makes them a fairly different experience to conventional "Blueys". For someone who is just starting in climbing I'd say it's a much bigger commitment to go to the Wolgan, vs taking a couple of hours from a day in the main Blueys.

And as a counterpoint, and assuming no one has rebolted them in the years since I last did them, a few climbs which are difficult to protect well other than the crux (i.e. large runouts and/or dodgy gear with potential ground falls from a decent height)

Viparete
Birds Nest
Radios Appear
Chastity ** Normally toproped by climbing Faith or Sincerity.

Again, I'm going from old memories so could be mistaken. The point is that there are a lot of climbs which are hard to protect for someone near their limit, though someone who is comfortable at the grade will just run it out through "the easy bits". Telling the difference can be very hard, because the "OK crack for gear" can be blind when you get to it, or the break can be super shallow and not take a hex or cam.

My experience is that while it's possible to find scary and dangerous climbs at Arapiles, the rock tends to give you a hell of a lot more options for decent gear, so the odds of jumping on a dangerous route are considerably lower.

Note that I'm also relying on old guide books here: the newer ones may flag the dodgy ones better. I know one edition I've got puts a skull and crossbones on some of the climbs I've mentioned, but I'm not sure if that idea is still around.

There are 181 replies to this topic.

 

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