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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Nowra crags not in the guide
ry
20-Apr-2011
3:05:02 PM
This is a response to a previous thread, but easier to start a new thread, and maybe more discussion!

Regarding Boong Crag, it was never re-named anything. It is a worthless short piece of rock a bit below Hospital Rocks, and just a bit further up river. It was not worth including in the old Nowra guidebook!

Now I will deviate off the subject slightly, like all good threads!

The original climbing at Ben's Walk, inside the showgrounds was not included, even though it was perhaps worthwhile, because it is illegal to climb in that little area (since 1990's) and is enforced by Nowra council rangers. When Shoalhaven council asked for submissions on climbing within Council controlled lands around Nowra in the '90s (which include T.P. , Grotto areas and Bomaderry Creek areas) they had already stated that the climbing in the Ben's Walk area would be closed because it was a gazetted Tourist Track, no-one objected. Only two climbers sent submissions to Council, including myself, before council wrote up their climbing policies, even though it was well publicised and climbers were aware of the need to put in submissions, so the closure of Ben's Walk is a done deal, and Boong Crag just isn't worth climbing on.

Shoalhaven Council takes a totally hands-off approach as long as we self regulate, keep our climbing off their tourist tracks and maintain our own anchors. They don't want any legal liability coming back at them, but are happy for climbers to enjoy Nowra without creating any risk to other users. The ideal land manager attitude for climbers I reckon, so don't piss them off!
Climb.org.au has routes listed in the walk-down track to The Grotto (20m left of Rockshox) that have been added in the last recent few years that are not doing the climbing community a service by existing, let alone listing on a website. He (the first ascentionist) was aware of council regulations and bolted them anyway, and added his ascent details!
Thankfully the culprit is now focussing his attentions out in the New Nowra areas.
Possible thecrag.com and climb.org.au list routes at Ben's Walk, (I haven't looked there to check) for "historical" purposes, but aren't doing climbing a service by listing them and perhaps encouraging people to climb there.

Any discussion?

CheersRod Young
kp
20-Apr-2011
3:27:06 PM
Those routes on the walking track really should be chopped.

nmonteith
20-Apr-2011
4:24:37 PM
Rod, the beauty of online guides is that you can log in yourself and correct the problems - you seem to have the best knowledge of the area so I suggest jump online and add a strongly worded intro to these areas stating why access is problematic there.
ry
20-Apr-2011
6:31:41 PM
Yeah, I had approached the first ascentionist, and should really have posted on those sites, but don't want to be too pushy, and it is clear in the old guide not to climb in this little canyon down the walking track at The Grotto.

There are 4 messages in this topic.

 

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